Peterbilt broke my truck, how much should they be responsible for?

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by ppaulvsk, Dec 26, 2018.

  1. Ridgeline

    Ridgeline Road Train Member

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    So they didn't call you to tell you the problem before they proceeded but took it on themselves to try to "fix" something that may be their problem to begin with?

    AND they didn't tell you this when you picked up the truck?

    Got it.

    I would tell them that wasn't communicated to you when it happened when you should have been told because it sounds like a lame excuse and they should eat the cost for everything but I would offer paying for the clutch, everything else is their problem.
     
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  3. Midnight_tim

    Midnight_tim Light Load Member

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    That is some poor customer service. I also would be uncomfortable with the fact that they broke something and the only reason you found out is because something else wasn't working.

    Hopefully everything is resolved and you're back on the road.
     
  4. snowman_w900

    snowman_w900 Road Train Member

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    You dont NOT take a torch to a yoke on a transmission to "cut" it off.

    There are specific pullers to remove frozen yokes. Heating one is a big maybe, but cutting it off the output shaft??? That's just plain ridiculous
     
  5. snowman_w900

    snowman_w900 Road Train Member

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    Fine spline output shafts and midship carrier bearing yokes are notorious for having a yoke seized on to them because of rust and corrosion if they have never been removed on an older truck
     
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  6. RET423

    RET423 Medium Load Member

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    There is only one big nut that holds the yoke on, it was likely run a little loose which damaged the threads, making it impossible to thread the nut off.

    Your only option at this point is to cut the nut off, no shop will guarantee your output shaft will survive this; they do their best but this is a tricky thing to do.

    The speed sensor is a simple sensor that plugs in and reads the toner ring, there is no way that you can damage the speed sensor in such a way as to also damage the yoke or toner ring; your issue with the yoke had nothing to do with your mechanic in other words.

    If they are willing to eat all of parts and only charge you labor then you are getting a more than fair deal, all they owed you was a 75 dollar speed sensor and the 10 minutes it takes to pop it in; the rest of your expense was due to your yoke running loose which they had no control over.
     
  7. Ridgeline

    Ridgeline Road Train Member

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    Yeah it could happen but the point is that unless there is other issues, the mechanic and shop needs to figure out how to fix the problem without using a torch and communicating that to the owner first.

    Most of what I have seen, penetrating oil and letting it sit does more than a torch.
     
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  8. stayinback

    stayinback Road Train Member

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    The nut holding them in does

    2 3/16 socket and some heat if you don't have time to wait 24 hours on PB Blaster.
     
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  9. Nothereoften

    Nothereoften Light Load Member

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    Which peterbilt dealership? Want to know who to never use
     
  10. m16ty

    m16ty Road Train Member

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    Did they heat the yoke or just the nut? It’s pretty common to heat the nut, but I’ve never had to heat a yoke. If they got the yoke very hot, your transmission seal is probably junk.

    Sounds like they were removing the driveshaft to replace the clutch, and one of the bolts were stripped that held the u-joint. After finding the stripped u-joint bolt, they decided to pull the yoke. They attempted to pull the yoke but were unsuccessful, and didn’t tighten it back down. The tone ring is just held in place by pressure between the yoke and rear bearing, if the yoke is loose, the tone ring can slip and not provide a speed reading.
     
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  11. snowman_w900

    snowman_w900 Road Train Member

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    Well I totally agree with you, the shop sucks and should have done a way better job communicating with him.

    You said the yokes dont rust on to the output shafts and I wanted to correct that point. It happens quite often especially on older trucks in the rust belt. I have found that penetrating oil does virtually nothing in those cases because theres really no way to get it into the seized up area down in the splines.

    A good yoke puller and some heat sometimes is the only way to get them freed up and removed.

    I have also had to cut the yoke nut off with a torch because there simply is no alternative. But I have never actually had to cut the yoke itself off. That seems very odd to me and very unnecessary to resort to that.
     
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