Peterbilt Clutch Issue

check the easy stuff first, remove the inspection cover from the bottom of the bell housing and take a look up there, suppose to be around 1/2 inch approx between the throw out bearing and the clutch brake, now check if the tabs are sheared off the clutch brake its possible it would make this noise and stop when you take out the free play as the bearing will be against the brake. To check if the tabs are sheared off try to spin the clutch brake by hand, the obvious here with engine shut off of course , if the brake spins the tabs are gone. These clutch brakes are a pain to get out but the new one is a bit easier to get in. Get a Haldex or Babcock, they hinge on one side and are much better quality. Do not get the cheap two piece pot metal one or you will be changing it again in a week. Just the first thing to check and the cheapest place to start, around $25 to replace, just make sure the inner tabs get into the slots on the tranny cone or it will be frustrating.
J-J

 

Correction, Babcock does make a two piece or a hinged style either are good quality, I prefer the hinged, work it open and closed a few times outside to loosen it up a bit then put it in , which ever style you get or brand just make sure the mounting ring is a good steel construction and not that junky pot metal

 

Not necessarily, check the gap between the bearing and the brake, make sure the brake is seated all the way back , approx 1/2 inch gap give or take a 16th

 

Correct, don't ask me which way to turn the adjuster I can never remember till I am laying there looking at it, what comes to mind is tighten the bolt tightens the gap, double check me on that one though

 

That TB should have a grease zirk on it also give that a couple shots with the grease gun you are already right there, right?

 

Remember now, you will have to have someone depress the clutch pedal some or put a stick or something on it before you can turn the adjuster for the clutch or it will not turn , to much pressure from the pressure plate