Pooch decking

It may be easier and cheaper to weld flippers onto the decking. I use them in areas that do not have holes punched in my trailers, they are also used on the end of some extendable decking sections (like loading ramps). Here is a link to one made by B/A Products through AW Direct, there are many other places to order these as well. You would weld them on in front of and behind where the wheels usually sit on your trailer then use them to attach the hooks on the over the tread straps.
http://www.awdirect.com/b-a-products-3-hole-flipper-1/flippers-batwings/

 

Brians idea above is good & effective. But for me personally would rather rent a plasma cutter & cut some holes where needed. You could use a Take 3 as a template. http://www.take3trailers.com/Model-50-53.html
I have done the same to the diamond tread over the rear wheels on my Miller trailers as well.

 

I was going to do exactly that with my 2014 (got the idea from you, only worry was when you said it voided the Miller warranty) when we took delivery of it, but I ended up needing strap tiedowns quickly and just welded on some flippers I already had in stock. I do like your way, cutting the holes is simple and neat looking, also more has versatility for strap placement.

on a side not LBZ, what do you think of these strap conversions? I have been kicking around the idea of installing a few of these to cut down on the number of portable straps I have to mess with as I am doing more strap loads than chain loads anymore. I figure I can put these in every position except on my rear slide out and top front where the shotgun is.
http://automobiletransportsupply.ca/index.html

 

Am sorry if I mentioned anything about warranty with the Miller. Do not remember specifics about it now though. But Miller did the cutting on the 2013 before I picked it up & has been perfect. I did the previous 2 on my own. No cracks or anything anywhere over the tandems or down the sides. Think they were cut on 12" centers staggered in 3 rows.

Thinking the conversion strap mount is a good idea for spots 2,3 & 4 on the top. But spot 1,6 & 7 would be eliminated due to the sliding decks as you mentioned or the diamond tread over wheel wells. Though guess you could squeeze one in for the front of number 7 toward the tandems. Spot 5 would be down in the drop pockets & think the straps would rub the decking going across to it.

The Miller guys said they were working on a new trailer a couple years ago. But have not seen nor heard anything. Personally if was going to throw any money at the current design. They have added a drop pocket for the 6 spot that is shorter than the ones they use on number 5. Would like to see that length moved to the top on number 4 for the front wheels of trucks/suvs to drop in. But again, that messes up the strap conversion. So would be nice to see them update their design to be a bit more fluid.

 

I have an 07 Cottrell converted to straps with those exact strap ratchets. They work very well although they aren't as quick as using chains. I couldn't tell you what they cost as I bought the trailer after it was refurbished and converted but they are a nice solid design.

 

I thought it was you that said Miller would punch the holes but not warranty that section of the trailer, may have been someone else. Maybe I am overthinking things, there are many things I want to change on my Miller if I keep it, strap conversion is one. I also want to redo my #6 position, I have the double drop with the slide out that can shoot a vehicle over the #5 spot (first belly spot) but it is really useless. I have seen a few Millers with that position setup to drop from under the unit, which will also lower the roofline of that vehicle, and if it didn't slide you could strap convert it. Also, since I do not load a cab rack and NY frowns upon extending the #1 shotgun I may just remove it and put a strap conversion up there as well. As for the 6&7 spots, I want to put a conversion piece on the flat part of the diamond plate in between my trailer axles, plenty of clearance since I have the 22.5 wheels. This would allow me to send one set of those straps towards #6 and one towards #7, only would have to use portable straps on the rearmost of #7. I also would love to replace my top level decking with the bolt on replaceable aluminium like most other manufacturers use, and have it with the small drop built in. As it is my steel decking keeps cracking and warping, so that may become a required modification sooner rather than later.

 

I had a quote of $249.00 each just for the part then I would have to do the actual install. That makes it about $500 per loading position on the trailer plus labor, which I figure would take my fab guy a full day or maybe a bit more, so about $4,500 to $5,000 to convert my entire trailer (without the extras I said I want in the other post above). If I did all the extras as well that would add about another $2,500 which is hard to swallow on a trailer I am not really thrilled with, but still cheaper than buying another new unit.

 

Miller has a front removable chain bar for that #1 spot. It bolts on to the front deck, but would think if I remember correctly that you would be able to use it as a strap bar. Would also allow you to keep the slide deck in place.
They no longer show it specifically on the site, but still listed in the options. Would contact Larry down there to get an idea or photos if interested. http://www.millerind.com/images/uploads/brochures/titan-t7-long-neck-short-neck-brochure.pdf
Also do not think I would purchase more than 2 of those strap conversion deals until you know how they are going to fit & work. Would hate to see a newer trailer all cut up & not be happy with the end result/money spent for the conversion. Either way, post some photos if you do it. Would like to see it.

 

I like the idea of the chain bar as a strap bar, and yes, I will only try one set at a time until I am sure how I like it.