Pre trip inspection.

On the safety equip. don't forget the seatbelt(not cut or frayed and mounted securely to floor, seat, and top of cab and fastens properly). If you can reach it, put your hand on it. If you can't reach it, point to it(ID and clearance lamps). On your lights, remember FCC(Function, Color, Condition). Good luck to you, pinebars. If you can get access to a truck, do it and PRACTICE!

 

When you go to the DMV, you have to do the PTI from memory. But if you get a system down, the 107 parts you have to talk about, really isn't that bad. A lot of companies require you to do a PTI for them. Just practice, and you'll do fine.

 

anyone going to the DMV for their CDL, unless you pass the PTI and Stopbox, you won't get a chance to show the tester how good you are at driving a truck. The test is divided into 4 parts. They are: PTI, Stopbox, Skills, Road. The only thing that I and probably any Driver on the road now, is to practice until you can do all of it in your sleep. Get to the DMV early and don't stress yourself out. I go on Feb. 17 and 8AM. I'm confident that I'll get my CDL that day, but I'm not ####y about it. Good luck to all.

 

Hey guy's been a while. Almost a year ago when I posted this PTI I was getting my CDL through Prime. The tester was pretty tough but I learned mine by heart in just over 2 week's with a month to get it. Believe it or not I have a short learning memory so it takes me some time to memorize something like that but I kept from burning myself out doing it everyday so I didn't do it every day. I simply laid in my bunk and named everything off as I pictured the parts in my mind then would quiz myself afterwords with my CDL instructor taking score. I passed it the first time and didn't miss anything. When you do take the test keep a bottle of water in hand. You will need it. When I took the real test I flew through it so fast that by the time I reached the side of the cab the tester told me just to name off the parts and point to them. It was hot and I was running through it so fast I got choked up from getting dried out and missed 5 points for not saying "do the same for the second drive axle as you would the first." So I missed an axle got hit with 5 points but still passed first try. After the trip to the DMV to get my CDL my instructor and his wife took me out to Red Lobster for a good meal and drinks to celibrate. He had been instructing for 4 year's and I was the best student he ever had and the only student to ever get in his truck the first day and float gears. I though his eye's were gonna pop out of his head when he asked where I learned how to do that and do it so well. I had a blast. Anywho, as I understand the PTI has gone from 105 to 150 different part's. I saw one of the new instructor's hand books which we are not allowed to have but was trying to get one for myself so I could add in the new stuff required to be checked.

 

I don't know about you guys, but I was allowed to take a checklist with me, which made the pretrip a piece of cake.

 

All from memory, however California will let you have a picture from the cdl book for reference, however no notes, In Ca you have to pass the 5 point brake test before you have to worry about the pretrip

 

For what it is worth, for me, I just followed 'the flow. Sweeping my view around the engine, I covered everything.

Then, once you finish the engine, follow the frame to the suspension, follow the suspension to the brakes, follow the brakes to the wheel, over and outside the tire.

When you leave the tire, sweep your hand up to the mirror, follow the door skin over to the handle and grab bar, then down to the steps and the tank. Bring your hand back up and you are at the compartment with the extinguisher, fuses, and flares (triangles). Sweep around the fairing to the back of the tractor, down to the hoses, over to the frame (catwalk), driveshaft, follow to torsion bars, and then follow the frame to the suspension, brakes, wheels, tires, just like you did on your steers. Work your way around to the rear. You can do the fifth wheel either between axles or after you go around. IE - "checking the king pin latch to make sure it is intact, now working my way around to check to make sure all of the bolts are intact, checking the handle.... blah, blah, blah..."

On the trailer, start at the top, then header board, connections, then the sides, landing gear, underside, work your way back to the suspension (air bags if equipped), Slide mechanism (if equipped), brakes, wheels, tires, then move to the next axle. Go around the back, look up, check lights, DOT tape, doors, DOT bumpers (in other words, start at the top and work down. Then come around to the right side, and make the statement that you would do the same check as you did on the driver's side. Make sure to check your landing gear handle too (might be on right, might be on left)

Then in the cab, picture a stewardess on a plane. Holding hand together pointing forward, then to each side. <hands together> checking my windshield, <hands out> checking my windows and mirrors, left hand up, checking airhorn, hand down on steering wheel, checking city horn. Naturally you are now on the steering wheel, so check the play in the wheel. Then check clutch pedal, shifter (detent spring).

Now you check the electric and gauges. Tell the instructor what you are going to be looking for (voltage between 12-14, oil pressure around 40, air pressure building to 120-125), then turn the key on, check your gauges. Moving from right to left, check your heater, wipers, panel lights, turn signal indicators, 4 way indicators, and any other electronics the truck might be equipped with. Check to make sure you have full air pressure. Then turn the key off until the engine cuts off, then turn the key on, but do not start it.

Now comes the final phase, the brakes. Press and hold the pedal to make sure you dont lose more than 4 psi in 1 minute, make a statement to that effect, then pump the brakes to relieve pressure from 60-80 lbs to activate the warning light / buzzer, then pump it down to 20-40 lbs to pop the brakes. Once it pops, turn off the key, remove it from the ignition, and hand it to the tester, stating "PreTrip Inspection Complete".

It might sound silly, but if you are having trouble remembering what to do next, just sweep your hands around like the Karate Kid. Follow your hands and you will not miss a thing. Keep in mind that talking to yourself is permitted and encouraged. Plus it will take the guesswork out of it for the tester..... they'll know what you are doing. Plus, you will most likely prompt yourself to remember the next step.

Trust me...... Good Luck!

 

hey most important thing is air brake check and for gods sake remeber to mention your checking to make sure your not losing more than 4psi a min with engine off brakes applied

 

You're right and I've not hired drivers because they would do this test with the engine running. But (unless the laws has changed) you failed to explian the whole test. First you make sure the air gauge is at full cut off. Release the service brakes and you shouldn't loose more than 2psi for a single vehicle or 3psi for a combination in 1 minute. THEN apply 90 lbs or more with the brake pedal and then in 1 minute you shouldn't loose anymore than 4psi for combination and 3psi for single. That's the way it used to be but the important thing here is not to have the engine running and time the air loss.

 

At first, I thought the pre-trip was going to be difficult to learn, but it's really pretty simple once you know what you're looking at and for. I learned to do it a bit different than the school taught, as far as figuring a way to speak it so I could say it, but they made it pretty easy to do.

This is what I said at the DMV below and I did very well. Things may differ a bit from state to state, but this method should pretty much cover it all. A couple abbreviations used are as follows.....

PMS= Properly Mounted and Secured

CDL= Cracked, Damaged or Leaking (for air lines I'd say not cut or damaged and no audible air leaks)

CDAL= Cut, Damaged, no Audible Air Leaks (regarding air lines/hoses)

Lights/Signals/Reflectors: Touch them and say what they are (clearance lights, headlights, reflectors, signals, markers or for the rear I used the term "brake/turn/tail signals" then that they are clean, clear/white/red or amber in color. That they are PMS and not cracked, chipped, broken or missing and in good condition. When pointing out clearance lights, be sure to mention how many there are.

For example, I would point to the clearance lights on top of the cab using a sweeping motion with my hand and say, "These are the clearance lights. There are five of them. They are clean and amber in color. They are PMS not cracked, chipped, broken or missing and in good condition".

Another example, for the headlights I would touch both sides and say, "Here are the headlights, they are PMS, they are clean and clear in color and they're not cracked, chipped, broken or missing and in good condition"
For all electrical wires: PMS, not bare, cut, frayed or spliced, and in good condition.

For all liquid hoses: PMS not CDL and in good condition.

For air hoses/lines: secure, not CDAL and in good condition (you have to be specific about the AIR leaks vs. just saying leaking, so they know that you know the difference between an air hose and a liquid hose).

For belts: PMS, not frayed, cracked, worn or damaged and no more than 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of play, when pulled by hand.

For engine components: PMS, no missing nuts or bolts. Be specific as to whether it is belt driven or gear/engine driven and for the air compressor add, not CDAL (then talk about the air hoses connected to it).

For example, I would say while touching it, "This is the air compressor. It is gear/engine driven. It's PMS, no missing nuts or bolts. It's not cracked or damaged and there are no audible air leaks and it's in good condition.
The hoses/lines are secure, they are not cut or damaged and there are no audible air leaks."

Coolant Reservoir: PMS, no missing nuts or bolts, not CDL and the sight glass (if applicable) indicates the coolant level is in the proper operating range between add and full. Then talk about the hoses and wires connected to it.

Water Pump: is gear driven PMS, no missing nuts or bolts, not CDL and in good condition. Then refer to the hoses/lines connected to it.
Alternator: is belt driven, PMS no missing nuts or bolts then refer to the belt and wires.

For example, I would touch it and say, "This is the alternator. It is belt driven. It's properly mounted and secured, there are no missing nuts or bolts.

The wires are secured to the alternator and they're not cut, bare, frayed or spliced, and in good condition.

The belt is PMS, it's not cracked, frayed, worn or damaged, and there's no more than 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of play when pulled by hand".

Steering system: Check the power steering fluid level and mention it. Reservoir is PMS no missing nuts or bolts, not CDL and in good condition. Then talk about the hoses, secured not CDL.

Gearbox: PMS no missing nuts or bolts, not CDL and in good condition.

Pitman Arm, Drag Link, Steering Arm and Tie Rod: Point each out and if you can in your state, do them all at once after pointing out, touching and naming each individual component.

Then say they are PMS, no missing nuts or bolts not bent, broken, cracked or damaged and in good condition. Mention the cotter pins and that there are three of them, and point them out and mention that they are present and secured.

Suspension

Spring Hangers PMS to the frame no missing nuts or bolts (or say no loose or broken welds when you see one welded on) not cracked, broken or damaged and in good condition.

Leaf Springs: All are present and PMS no missing nuts or bolts not cracked, damaged, loose or shifted and in good condition.
Shock Absorber PMS no missing nuts or bolts not CDL and in good condition.

Airbags Are inflated, PMS no missing nuts or bolts there are no holes, cuts or bulges and no audible air leaks. Then do the hoses, secure not CDAL.

Brakes

Brake Chamber: PMS no missing nuts or bolts not bent, cracked or damaged and there are no audible air leaks. Then do the hoses, PMS CDAL.

Slack Adjuster PMS no missing nuts or bolts free of damage and the cotter pin is present and secured.

With the brakes released it's a little greater than ninety degrees. With the brakes applied they are NOT LESS than ninety degrees.

When checking the slack adjuster with the brakes released and the wheels chocked, there should be no more than one inch of free play in the slack adjuster, when pulled by hand.

Brake Linings PMS not cracked, broken, damaged or excessively worn. Free of grease and oil and in good condition.

Brake Drums PMS not cracked, broken, damaged or warped. Free of grease and oil and in good condition.

Wheels

Rims: Make sure you point out the inside of the rim(s) and outside. This let's them know that you know what you're looking at and for. It's a good idea to do so you don't forget anything, especially when checking the duals.

Tell em it's PMS not cracked, bent, or damaged and free of illegal welds and in good condition.

Lugs Are all present and tight and in good condition. No rust trails or shiny threads to indicate loose lugs.

Hub Seal/Axle Seal PMS no missing nuts or bolts not CDL and in good condition. If it's an axle seal that's all you have to say. For a hub seal, you add that the sight glass (if applicable) indicates the oil is between add and full. If no sight glass, remove the rubber seal and check the lube level and say it's present and filled properly.

Tires Steers, PMS no bulges or cuts on the sidewalls (check and touch both inside sidewall and outside sidewalls and say that while you're doing it) and free of foreign objects. Tread is evenly worn, free of foreign objects and no less than 4/32 of an inch.

You may have to mention the fact that there shouldn't be mismatched tires for the steers and no recaps. I didn't, but I don't know what your state may require.

Budd Duals, PMS no bulges or cuts on the sidewalls (check all sidewalls inside and out and touch them all) and free of foreign objects.

Tread wear is even and free of foreign objects and there is no less than 2/32 of an inch of tread. Since they're budds, no spacers are required and make sure you mention that and that there is no foreign objects between the tires.

Dayton Wheels: Same as the Budd except you have to mention the spacer and that it's PMS and evenly spaced and free of foreign objects. With Dayton wheels you need to mention the wedges as well when you check the lugs.

SAY THE FOLLOWING FOR EVERY TIRE!!!!
Using a gauge or a mallet, I would check to make sure it's inflated properly to 90-100 psi.

In Cab Inspection

Safety Equipment

Fire Extinguisher: is PMS has a rating of ten BC (most likely) and is fully charged.

Emergency Triangles: There are three of them. They are red and orange in color then explain where they're located.

Fuses/Circuit Breakers: This truck is equipped with (one or the other) if it's a self setting circuit breaker, explain that it does not require fuses and point to or touch the area where it's located.

If fuses, explain that you have spare fuses in the glove box and where the fuse panel is located. Some states may differ in how you need to explain these so check it out.

Seat Belt: PMS not frayed, worn or damaged and in good condition. Pulls and retracts properly and latches properly.

Start the engine: Say I will now start the engine. Demonstrate and say that the manual transmission is in neutral and then put your foot on the clutch and say, there is no more than two inches of free play in the clutch and fire it up.

Gauges

Oil Pressure: Touch it and say what it is and that it's rising to the normal operating range.

Water Temperature: Rising to the normal temperature of 190 degrees.

Voltage: Charging properly at thirteen to fourteen volts.

Air Supply: Rising to the normal operating range of 100-125 psi.

Switches

Blinkers and Hazards: Go through each individually (obviously lol) as you turn your left signal on for example, point to it on the dash and say that it's the left turn signal and that it's working properly. Do the same with the right blinker and the hazards (I used both hands for the hazards and pointed at each side).

Headlights: Turn on and say the dash panel light is working properly, indicating my lights are on. Then switch to the brights and point to the "brights on" indicator on the dash panel and say that it's working properly.
Windshield Wipers: Turn on and say they are PMS not frayed, worn or damaged and making good contact with the windshield and in good condition. Then demonstrate that the washer fluid sprayer is functioning and say it's working properly.

Windshield: Since I'm already looking at the windshield, I go ahead and get it out of the way, along with the mirrors. Say the windshield is PMS clean, not cracked, chipped or damaged and free of illegal stickers and in good condition.

Mirrors: PMS clean, not cracked, chipped or damaged and in good condition, free of illegal stickers and adjustable from the inside (either by hand or by switch).

Horns: Demonstrate that both the city horn and air horn are working. At least one has to be working.

Steering Free Play: Turn the wheel all the way to the left and look outside at the wheel. Ease the steering wheel to the right until you see the steer tire move. Say, there is no more than two inches of free play in this twenty inch steering wheel (may differ in your state).

Defrost and Heater: Set the temp control slider to defrost and feel above the dash and say that it's working properly. Then, set the switch to heat and check the below the dash and say that the heater is working properly.

Three Brake Tests

Tug Test: The only brake test you do with the engine running. Push in the red button (trailer) ONLY, as you are testing the tractor brakes in this test. Explain what you're doing as you go along or before you do it, whatever works best for you.

You tell them, I will now perform the tug test by pushing in the trailer brake. I'm putting it in gear and slowly releasing the clutch until I feel it pull against the tractor brakes.

Demonstrate and say that the tractor brakes are working properly. At this point, cut the engine off and turn the key to the ON position.

Applied Pressure Test: Make sure BOTH buttons are pushed in now. I will now perform the applied pressure test by applying pressure to the service brake while holding it down for one minute. I should lose no more than four psi of air pressure in this combination vehicle (3 psi for a straight truck) in one minute.

They will likely time it for you and tell you when to release it.
Pump Down Test: Leave both buttons where they are (they should both already be in from the previous test). Now I will perform the pump down test by repeatedly pumping the service brake. At 60 psi a low air pressure warning indicator should show on the dash panel (should be an audible indication as well and point at the warning light when it comes on and tell them it's on) and between 40 and 20 psi both buttons should pop out indicating the spring brakes have engaged.

Make sure both buttons have popped out and when they do, say the spring brakes have engaged and the tests indicate the brake system is working properly.

At this point this concludes the in cab inspection (at least in my state) so I would state that and ask the person if they would please step out and check that the lights/signals are working properly.

The rest has been covered well in the previous posts so I'll leave it at that.