Problem with Cummins N14

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by WildHog, Oct 14, 2011.

  1. Roadking58

    Roadking58 Bobtail Member

    May 31, 2010

    QUALITYTRUCK Medium Load Member

    Jun 14, 2009
    sounds exactly like engine position sensor.located behind air compressor.3 wires (white,green,red)very inexpensive ($45 ?)at dealer.if you unplug it and see any oil in connector,it is way to remove it is to cut off wires near sensor then put socket on.good luck.
  3. blanco

    blanco Road Train Member

    Nov 20, 2009
    Gwinnett County, GA
    Quality, I thought along the same lines, but, that would generate codes. Wildhog said no codes
  4. JohnP3

    JohnP3 Road Train Member

    Feb 21, 2010
    Rock Creek B.C. Canada
    The engine position sensor has 4 wires, two coils inner two should be 1,000to 2,000 ohms and infinity to ground same as the outer wires.
    I would look into the fuel tank with a flashlight and see if there is air in the return fuel. You can see the return pipe.
    To test the ECM, and ignition switch, put volt meter on the fuel solinoid stud, check, the wire they brake and will stay together from the shrink tube.
    You really want to start with cleaning the battery connections, and grounds.
    If you have a vacuum gauge check the restriction at the suction side of the fuel pump, with a clean filter it should be less than 10 inches of Vacuum.
    Acm Thanks this.

    QUALITYTRUCK Medium Load Member

    Jun 14, 2009
    i stand corrected,it does have 4 wires.EPS is one of the few sensors that will not always throw a code when defective.I have found more bad ones without codes than with.
  6. Pablo-UA

    Pablo-UA Road Train Member

    Oct 11, 2010
    Borispol, Ukraine
    hah! EPS is one magnet sensor with two coils, so if one fails engine keeps running but with fault code... it is a kind of redundancy, becouse N14 got no cranckshaft sensor, like Volvo, Mercedes and other...
  7. Starline

    Starline Medium Load Member

    Jun 1, 2011
    Middle Tn
    My money is on a collapsed fuel filter.

    If its fuel related, start with the most simple thing like the filters.
    Also there is a check valve there the fuel line comes out the block by the ECM... trash can and does collect there unless you have a primary filter like a Davco between the fuel tank and the engine.

    When mine begins to "lope" or idle rough, I change the filter, problem solved.
  8. WildHog

    WildHog Light Load Member

    Oct 13, 2011
    I think you guys are exactly right. I found another instance of this problem on another website and it was identical to mine. It had nothing to do with the fuel system or the ecm.

    Thanks for the help.
  9. WildHog

    WildHog Light Load Member

    Oct 13, 2011
    The fuel system has been gone through and all filters were changed.
    It runs fine at 1500 rpms but won't run at 800. I don't think that's a fuel related problem.
  10. WildHog

    WildHog Light Load Member

    Oct 13, 2011
    Found the problem.
    Wanted to thank everyone for there help and to share with others what I found.
    First - symptoms: this is a 95 Cummins N14 Celect. Would crank and run for about 3-5 minutes and then die. No Codes.

    Troubleshoot: Get in truck and press accelerator down about half way, start the truck and run it at 1200 to 1500 rpm for 5 to 10 minutes. (Warm it up) If truck does not shut off and continues to run, them let it idle and see if it shuts off. (Mine did)
    Solution: Bad Position Sensor or like inmy case a piece of metal was stuck on the position sensore magnet(crank/cam sensor?) Cummins Part Number 2872362. I paid 30.12 for it and the truck runs like new. Others have found that the Celect series will not necessarily throw a code when this happens. There are four wires on the sensor.
    I think this issue (no code thrown) may have been fixed in the Celect+. The sensor is a major pain in the ### to get to but it is located on the drivers side (USA) toward the front middle portion of the motor around or behind the front cover. It took a 3/8 ratchet, extension and a modified 11/16 crows foot to get it in/out. I'm sure there is a special tool for this.
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