"professional" inverter install

Remember the Hindenburg?

 

Just because you may know how to do it, doesn't mean any other driver will know how to do it. I probably would have just had your local car audio shop put it in. They would have had the correct circuit breaker (fuses suck) to install as well. I always use 1/0 for my installs as it simplifies the connector sizing and availability. Had you busted out a MECP Certification or something, they might have let you install your inverter as well. In my previous life as a MECP installer and IASCA judge, you would not believe the 12v wiring I witnessed by folks that "knew" what they were doing. During a sound off, I had a car catch on fire while I was judging SQ inside it. The owner says, "don't worry, that happens every once in a while as the car filled up with smoke!

 

Do it yourself then print a receipt from "Juan Garcia's used car stereo super Mercado"...

There are millions of templates for receipts online.

 

I think you guys are right, if a shop does it and it burns up chances are the shop will pay. If a driver does it and it burns up who pays ? Maybe I should have a shop put mine in !!

 

The total length of the run was not stated. add the + and - conductor lengths.
The inverter efficiency was not stated.
The minimum operating voltage of the inverter was not stated.
I assume 10% wiring voltage drop is OK if the inverter is a good one.

2KW output with a 80% inverter efficiency requires 2.5KW DC = 198A @ 12.6V.
If the inverter is the regulated kind that can run down to 10.5V, it is then it needs 238A.

Consulting the wire tables:
If you plan to use the whole 2KW, a 250A fuse should be used to avoid nuisance blowing.
I don't prefer fuses but DC magnetic breakers.
If stuck with #2, a 200A fuse might be better but I would not accept the work, have him rip it out and put in #0.

#0 and a 250A fuse would be a better choice.

10% drop in the wiring is 1.26V, and with 238A that is .0053 Ohms
The inverter that runs down to 10.5V will need the battery to be at least 1.26v more, or 11.76V.
#0 can run up to 53.9 FT and accomplish that. (26.9 FT from the battery to the inverter)
This assumes no losses in any connectors. haha to that..

#2 could be used but would get hotter than the table allows for chassis wiring. 17W per dual FT.
In open air it would be OK but I always go by the table to avoid risk or liability.
If that is ignored, it could work up to 16.9 ft distance between the battery and inverter.

The tech might have been OK on the voltage drop but was wrong on the safety-related size requirement. One thing techs overlook is the allowable temperature of the wiring. I don't want hot or warm wires in my equipment.

The wire of those respective lengths will dissipate 10% of the total, which is up to 300W (1.25V x 238A) when the battery is discharging and the inverter is pulling more current. Bigger wire would have less loss.



Use #0 if you are going to take 2KW from the inverter, that's what I think about it.

 

I've just been inverter shopping (haven't decided on one yet, any input?) and was researching wiring...thanks to M818 for the very helpful post attachment.

 

If you're actually looking to shop around and buy quality, a pure sine inverter is the way to go, especially to run a fridge. That said, I have a cheapie as I upgraded my printer to a laser printer while on the road, and my 1000w inverter wouldn't power it, so I bought a 2000w cheapie from Loves.

 

double tap

 

Very much this, but from my experience, this doesn't equate to a correct install.