Question about how to buy a truck.

Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by otterinthewater, Jun 6, 2018.

  1. otterinthewater

    otterinthewater Road Train Member

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    I’ve learned so much as I build my knowledge base on here and other sites. I’d like to gloss over some of the usual pitfalls that I can search/read about ad nauseam on here. I did try to search this question but I’m not sure I found the answers. I know things can at times breakdown (no pun intended) in threads. So what I need input on is buying a truck. Thankfully I’ve done well in my career and can afford a truck and/or putting it into shape. I don’t have my CDL yet. I’d like to ignore that and look at the options in buying a truck, with me as the driver. I will need to have an exit strategy from me driving for a company to driving for myself as an L/O or O/O. I don’t want to lease from a carrier and be beholden to their freight and a truck payment to them. I want to complete my training as either a company driver or for a smaller concern and then go my own way and do my own thing in the western 11.

    The two truck options I’d like to discuss are both based on Volvo’s. I know there are lover and haters of all the brands and I want to ignore that. I’ve got to keep my wife comfortable when she goes with me on occasion, and we both like the creature comforts of the Volvos. I believe that a lot of this knowledge transfer may apply to other truck brands.

    1. Used 2017 Volvo VNL780 (D13 with iShift) $85,000 2-300,000 miles in good shape. Let’s assume it has some maintenance records, OA is good, very little blowby, and all the correct pieces. Let's say Injectors and cups haven’t been changed…just a nice truck.

    2. Used 2013/2014 Volvo VNL780 (D13 with iShift) $25-35,000 650,000 miles in average shape. Let’s say this truck has incomplete records.

    I can do the injectors and cups, overhead, all the basic maintenance and maybe 85% of the in frame. I love buying tools, and will gladly buy them to eliminate shop/dealer repair. My mechanic experience is extensive. I like fixing things. I have zero interest in being a mechanic for the general public, or running a mechanic business. I want to deal with less people. I’ve been in Operations and sales my whole life and it’s not that I don’t like people, I just feel better when they aren’t around. (Homage to Charles Bukowski in that last sentence)

    So the question is this. Do I buy the $25-35k truck and return the vehicle to pristine mechanical condition systematically go through the engine/truck over a period of months and repair, replace or modify all the known troublesome systems, and keep the good working parts that I believe have passed their service threshold as spares. This way I know exactly the condition of the truck and have experienced the repairs while in a place and time of my choosing, not by the side of the road.

    The other option would to be to buy the $85k truck with a warranty. The truck could be still troublesome, but then I’m waiting on approval from the warranty company/Volvo. I’m not a gambler. I am methodical almost to the point of OCD.

    I know there are other financial pitfalls to explore from the business side of things not limited to depreciation and taxes, insurance etc. I’ll get to those later. So you truck owners and carriers what are your thoughts if you we’re going to run just one truck?
     
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  3. Woodchuck88

    Woodchuck88 Medium Load Member

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    If your dead set on getting an automatic I’d pick the newer. You do not want problems with that transmission.
     
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  4. RustyBolt

    RustyBolt Road Train Member

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    ^^^^ What he said. Plus, that warranty might save you some $ when the DEF system acts up. And it will act up.
     
  5. Wooly Rhino

    Wooly Rhino Road Train Member

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    I would suggest you got through Lone Mountain. Get a brand new truck that has a warrantee. They also provide you a good fuel card that is 15 cpg discount at Love's.

    I have three trucks through them.
     
  6. Snotrockettt

    Snotrockettt Bobtail Member

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    Planning on doing your own wrenching sounds good in theory until you break down 1k miles from home.
     
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  7. DUNE-T

    DUNE-T Road Train Member

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    D13 usually is good up to 800k, then things go south. If Ishift breaks it's 18k to replace I think
     
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  8. otterinthewater

    otterinthewater Road Train Member

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    I don’t want to eat the depreciation. I like to pay for things and then own them, not 60 months later, right about the time I have to do all the major stuff again.
     
  9. otterinthewater

    otterinthewater Road Train Member

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    Ya, I thought about that. My thought was the same thing could happen on the newer model, but then I’m waiting for warranty approval. I’m not sure how long that takes on average. I’d like figure that out in my decision.
     
  10. Dave_in_AZ

    Dave_in_AZ Road Train Member

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    If you lease it, there is no depreciation.
    Lease is 100% expense, but you still own the truck.
    The leasing company takes the depreciation.

    Here's my thing on warranties. I think they are useless except for the major ticket items.

    How much are you going to lose @$600 day / net, to sit at a dealer for 2 days for a $125 item?

    You will be doing yourself the greatest injustice imaginable if you make a decision on a truck with 0 experience based on your wife's comfort expectations.

    Cause buddy, you wanna play in my neighborhood, there is more than just a little bit of bad highway that will shake your liver loose.

    I'd definitely go for some extended trial runs just for a few weeks, to see how you manage the stress of OTR life with each other, in a space smaller than your bathroom, and there's no where else to go.
     
  11. otterinthewater

    otterinthewater Road Train Member

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    Thanks for the reply. We’ve do drives regularly that would get us in trouble with HOS. One of the bigger barriers for surfboards is delivery. Just boxing one correctly costs $50. I delivered 18 boards last month with stops in Grants Pass, Portland, downtown Seattle and Tofino on Vancouver island. We did two deliveries between Santa Barbara and Seattle in about 20 hours. Thankfully my ‘97 f250 crewcab gets around 20mpg (I’m a hyper miler). Our 9 year old was with as well. It’s fun. I charged the customers $1610 combined for the freight. I thought that was a good money till I joined this board! Hahahaha. Next trip that way I will have to be over $2k.

    We were looking at a 780 and my wife thought it was about perfect size. (There’s a joke there lol).

    If you’re ever coming up the 101 through Santa Barbara let me know. I’ll buy you an epic burrito.

    I know those roads pretty well, especially between the SF and SD. I drove about 50,000 miles last year between Wa, Or, and Ca. Gotta deliver to get paid.

    I’m not comparing me to what you guys do. Mines waaay easier I bet.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 7, 2018
    Reason for edit: skirting the profanity filter
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