Thanks to the recent sunny weather, my project tractor has been getting the attention she needs after hundreds of thousands of miles without wax, without polished wheels, without.... love.
It's an '04 T2000 (there's a pic in my TTR album) with OEM blue metal-flake paint. I assume this is an Imron type of gel-coat. After a good wash and dry, I began with a low speed 6" polisher and 3 types of rubbing compound: 3M, Meguires, and NuFinish.
With the correct amount of music and beer, things were going great! My fairings were the worst and they came out looking like new. It was great, Until I got to the top of my hood.
Seems like none of the rubbing compounds are "smoothing" out the rough surface, knocking down the crud. The sides of the hood restored quite nicely, with little effort, but for some reason the top of the hood isn't cooperating.
Any suggestions? Maybe more persistence and less beer? Louder tunes? 11,000 rpm angle grinder?
I know scrapper used wet sanding on his fiberglass boat, but I am skeered to go to that extreme since it appears the paint is not bad, just needs TLC, plus I doubt that Imron will be as forgiving as the fiberglass rosin used on boat finishes.
Question About Restoring Paint on Tractor
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by VisionLogistics, Mar 26, 2012.
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HMMM...you might find some fiberglass if you did that...lol
You'll be fine...don't be "skeered" lol. Just start with 1000 grit...and LOTS of water. Do not press down...let the paper do the work. Then when you feel it smooth out move to 1200 grit..then to 1500 grit...washing in between. Then rubbing compound, polishing compound, then wax. You'll be happy with it. Just take your time do not rush. you'll be fine. You may not need the rubbing compound. Read on it and see what grit scartches it will remove. Most say 1500 grit...if its say 1200 grit...then you can skip the 1500 grit sand paper and go to the compound and so on. Make sure it says wet/dry paper. I really think you'll be fine. Doing it this way you have less chance to burn it too than using high speeds...no heat doing this.
Oh yeah I also did this on two w900's and two T600's last year. It will work. As long as it not white peeling looking stuff. If its just dull and rough it will work like a charm. Do a small spot on the roof where it won't be seen. It should be comparable to the hood
We do need some pictures please!
VisionLogistics Thanks this. -
Thanks! I'll try the clay bar first, and if no joy I'll move onto the wet sand process.
Question: When you're wet sanding, are you using a block, or just your hand and the square of paper? Are you doing it in a circular motion?
There is no peeling paint or anything. The hood just looks dull and you can feel it go from slick-smooth where I used rubbing compound, to dry and rough where it didn't work yet.
I almost bought a clay bar at the auto store, yesterday, too!
I'll get some pictures and post them of before / after- unless I screw it up and get my shotgun involved. -
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You tend not to have a problem with hood glare when you don't have a hood
Gears and VisionLogistics Thank this. -
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It's not bad enough to repaint. I bought a clay bar kit and also a variable speed buffer with some goodies today. I'm sure it'll come out fine with the new power tool. New tools always make things OK.
Currently here's how it looks. That's after the rubbing compound and no wax. The hood isn't peeling, that's the sky reflection. I'm sure the clay bar kit will kick butt on it though. If not, high speed buffer will let me get it just right, then burn a big streak in the center of the hood, ruining the job.
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