Radiator leaking
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Greg5915, Mar 9, 2016.
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I soldered cracks in my copper/brass radiator seemingly every week or two until I got around to replacing it. Had 2 "new" copper/brass radiators replaced under warranty (less than 1 year old) before saying F it and buying a heavy duty Aluminum one. Got mine from CG&J in Gadsden, AL and been problem-free ever since.
So sure, you could solder cracks, fill holes, and fill it up with various stop-leaks...but the best and only sure-fire way to FIX it is a new radiator.taxihacker66 and strollinruss Thank this. -
A little more info. What kind of truck? Where is it leaking (core?, end plates? Plastic or metal end plates?) How big of a leak?
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The last time my radiator was leaking, it was from the gasket, upper tank. I figured easy fix. I pulled the radiator out, sent it to the shop, $1100.00 later, had a new core in it. When they took the old one apart, they said it was ready to stretch like and accordian. With the horsepower I had, they did me a favor, upgraded to a 5 row.
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Kenworth t700, cummins, plastic endplates.
Not a big leak.
Small puddle underneath on the driver side -
If the leak isn't to bad then you could try this. Plastic endplates suck. If you end up replacing then try and get a new unit with metal endplates.
http://www.amazon.com/K-Seal-ST5516-Purpose-Permanent-Coolant/dp/B002BJEG3U/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41P2iZDOeML&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR124,160_&refRID=1D2YDCZ9Z2HA0128BMPX
This is some pretty good stuff. I have used it with guys that have leaks on plastic end radiators that did not have the funds to replace and it stopped most of them.BoxCarKidd and taxihacker66 Thank this.
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