Ratchet binders

The biggest safety concern I have with snap binders is when people use an open pipe or cheater bar without the end that locks onto the binder. I carry two bars. One with an open end for popping the binders open and another with the rectangular head made for locking onto the binder. ( not sure what that's called). It is too easy for an open ended bar to slip off when applying that much pressure.

 

I don't have a problem using either my preference would be a ratchet. Guys that I see and read about having problems with the chain twisting (or coming loose, it's from the twist) don't have proper technique. Always have one hook close to something that will keep it from spinning. The other hook you need to, just like with a snap, make sure it's attached to straight chain. Take a minute to untwist the chain before you start. If your ratchets are lubed properly you will have no problem holding the hook to keep it from rotating. Most of the time my binder is attached within a link or two of where the chain attaches.

Remember the binder does not need to be in the middle. Helpful hint on a long run like across plate steel place your binder near the side and the hook that's near the long run place a small piece of 2x4 under the hook. This will keep your binder off the steel and keep the hook from rotating.
You will never get a snap as tight as you can get a ratchet. I've used a big ratchet binder to straighten frames in the back yard auto shop.
The only true benefit I see to snap is they are faster to remove and easier to store.

 

Problem with a locking winch bar is the toe only releases if you can tip the bar up and pull it off. Been in plenty of situations where there's plenty of clearing for the chain and binder, but you end up with something in the way to get the bar off.

Besides, my open end still locks. After a summer of 1/2 inch snap binders and 1/2 inch chain I bent the last 8-inches of the bar. Not a positive lock, but, slam the bar on and it's on their plenty tight.

Besides, if you're paying attention, should have a feel for when the binder doesn't want to to and you need to drop a half link.

Until some idiot legislator says otherwise, I'll stick with snap binders and open-end pipes.

 

Yup. A lot of oil sand sites will skid you in a heartbeat if the wrong guy sees you trying to tie down with snap binders.

 

Are you talking about like this? The chains on the side go through the rub rail and attach to the frame. With the box being so top heavy we would not chance the rub rails.

 

Ok, question on that ld. why not put the full base on the deck instead of just the ends carrying the weight of the piece.
I see there looks to be a cable tied into it from end to end.
Like I said in another post, I never had fooled with pre cast concrete products

 

Because that is the position it needs to be lifted from. the bottom of the box is open and goes in the ground just like it sits. That loop thing you see on the top is the lifting point for the box. Yeah there is a cable to keep the ends from spreading out. The chains pulling front and back are only there to keep the box from rocking and breaking the sides. This load went about 500 miles to Williston, ND 2 years ago. It actually rode really well.

 

Thanks, Was kinda wondering if it had to do with lding and off lding system..

 

We just changed over to them. As quick as snap binders. Only 8mm chain size though and expensive and some of the other drivers have bent the workings from over tightening. Great for pipes because of the short body