Re decking flatbed trailer floor.

Good gloves too. None of that crappy 1.50 stuff.

I use a pair of Mechanix type gloves that I won in gaming. And a set of summer gloves for hot car driving back in the auction days during summer. The leather soaks the heat and gets me moving.

 

I didn't buy the same stuff you're looking at but the same kind of wood. I got 7"wide x 16' long shiplap apitong for about $5 a foot, delivered to my shop. Got it from Semi Service in SLC, UT.

 

I recently decked my RGN with apitong, it is amazing wood. Like you I found TrailerDecking, but they did not have what I needed, so I got my wood from a local supplier near Chicago, we picked it up ourselves, so no shipping cost.

The person who sold me that wood was extremely knowledgeable and told me exactly what I needed to know, sold me supplies also, everything worked out perfectly.

 

I would find a local saw mill and have rough cut dense hardwood put on. Most mills have stacks of lumber spaced and air drying. Unless you are really hard on it don't spend the big $

 

Forget Home depot and lowe's, you're going to want a real lumberyard/building supply company. They exist, they'll sell retail (or let you create an account) and they can get anything. (heck most of them deliver too).

do a search in your area.

 

Use the hardwood, after it has been in a while you will have to pre drill a hole to drive a nail in, might as well use steel instead,

Almost all trailer shops carry what you need, find one along your route, give them a call, for the time and trouble, plus crawling on your knees I would just pay them to put it in, can’t be over 1 hour of labor.
Take you longer that to gather up your tools and go buy the right screws.

 

FWIW, I did the 4 nailers in my '11 Reitnouer step myself and it is a job but the dealer wanted $1500. Plus I had the time.
IF you do it yourself, a few tips that worked for me: 1/2" rod and bang the screw heads with a BFH (3 hits worked for me) that should break the bond of dissimilar metals, then tease them out with your air gun. I was able to get all but 8 screws out. I wanted to use the factory holes.

I then chased the threads, put short all thread studs in the holes, board on top, banged board down (holes are now marked),drill holes, reinstall with new screws and anti seize. Looks factory if I do say myself.

"Raw" linseed oil if you can find it after about 3 months. Hope this helps.

 

No pictures, sorry. I did it in Jan. 2016 in S.C. where I live, fortunately it was dry, mild winter.
I'd have to back and look at receipts but I think I had about $700 in it.
Keep in mind, it was ton of work. If I bent down once, I bent down 100 times lol.
I got my wood from Industrial Pine Products in Newberry,S.C., it's local to me.
If time is an issue, you'd best have a shop do it. I personally don't think a shop would take the time and care that I did. They couldn't afford to work like I do, or the customer wouldn't pay the $.
BTW, it was not pine. This place has thousands of board feet of "Apitong", I was told Apitong is now protected and has been replaced by it's cousin whose name escapes me now. It's still good stuff