rear tranny seal leak

easy peasy. take the joint out and lower the drive shaft out of your way, spin off the big nut that holds the yoke on. May need to tap the yoke with a hammer to get it out. then it's just prying out the old seal and putting a new one in. when putting the yoke back in, use a new nut. this is very very important! they are self locking and if reused will loosen with vibration, ruining the new seal and if not caught eventually tearing up the rear bearing.

 

Yep that nut is pretty tight. I've spun them off with a half inch drive air gun. and also out in the field with a 3/4 drive ratchet. if doing the ratchet method you will need to put a bar through the yoke and lock it into the frame rails to keep the tranny from spinning. I suggest you don't try to hold it by putting the tranny in gear.

start to finish? maybe two hours if you've never done one before. worst part is getting the ujoint out. if it's froze up in the yoke you can try to break it free by putting a bottle Jack under the drive shaft at the yoke. don't try jacking the truck up, just put some pressure on it. then crack it with a2lb hammer.

 

Yeah that seals an easy 1hr job if the drive line doesn't put up a fight. If it does fight you then the hours can add up, the bottle jack works ok or you just have to beat it into submission. I have a short handled 8lb sledge for this, there is also a tool by OTC made for this which makes the job painless.

 

I priced one of those, was over 600 bucks. that's a lot of money for a tool that's only gonna get used one every few years.

 

Yeah they aint cheap. As a mechanic I have payed alot more for tools, and on flat rate that 400-600 bucks ends up making me money by allowing me to do a 3hr book job in 1 hour and lets me keep making hours instead of it taking as long as the job is booked for or longer.

 

ya, if I was running a shop or service truck I'd definitely have that, and a handfull of other specialty, but not necessary items. but just working on my stuff, just not cost effective.