Here's my situation right now. I'm a otr flatbed driver, I haul whatever they give me. I've been at this for a little over a year. Yesterday my load shifted for the first time. I'm ok, truck is ok, rebar dented headache rack. It was 60 ft rebar. I had 8 straps and 2 chains, and strap protection, which is why I was so surprised. Load was 49k but system of securement will was around 53k. Straps sat around dunnage when reasonable. My problem is that the rebar was thick and I stacked 3 pcs dunnage in front (to give room for airlines), and rear as I have done many times. Dunnage was well chained. When traffic slinked up fast (not a lot of merge space, i17 in phoenix) I came to a somewhat quick stop but not really that quick as drivecam did not activate. My front and rear dunnage stacks gave way and load slid into headache rack due to securement coming lose. After surmising what the cause was, I've been beating myself up over this because the thought never occurred to me that the dunnage wasn't a good set up for thick rebar. And so my question for you guys is how do you set up rebar dunnage for different gauges of 60+' rebar? It will never happen again, but I want to learn as much as possible. I'm really confident in my tie downs and now I realize that tiedowns aren't always the issue, any and all advice is greatly appreciated, please and thank you.
Rebar dunnage set up.
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by Dumbitfown4me, Aug 20, 2019.
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Bigger dunnage would work, but be heavy and a pain to deal with. I think some pipe stakes in front with the dunnage stacked against it, where it could not turn over, would maybe work.
FerrissWheel, blairandgretchen, beastr123 and 2 others Thank this. -
Instead of stacking dunnage on top of eachother. Set 2 side by side on the deck and then another dunnage on top or if u need to go taller than 2 on deck 2 on top of those and another on top. It gives it more a sturdy base for rebar to sit on . sure it takes more dunnage but it works well and doesnt create the top heavy effect of 3 dunnage stacked on top of one another. I haul a #### ton of rebar as well out of phoenix. When u got that #### on the deck u really got to drive carefully... If u put choker chains on each layer of rebar rather than trying to choke whole load. It works better. Its a lot more work but it helps. I throw 13 chains on rebar, i dont mess with straps on that stuff. 8 chains over top. 1 choker on each layer up front . 1 choker on full stack in middle and 1 choker on each layer on back. For a total of 13 chains and binders, for 60ft rebar. i throw an extra one for good luck on the front and make it 14 , dont,need the bad energy from the .number 13. I was in that similar situation back in january in cali, where those loopty loop on ramps merge as soon as they hit the freeway and i put that brake pedal to the floor for some stupid lady merging on at 15mph and i was going about 50. Just try ur best to avoid bad situations like that . all the extra work i mentioned is for when that bad situation does happen it gives u extra security. U could run rebar with no securment 1000 times and it probably wont even move a couple inches , but its the one time that when u got to put that brake pedal to the floor u really got to make sure its not gonna move on u. Good luck to u
Rcranch81, FerrissWheel, blairandgretchen and 5 others Thank this. -
I do not even remember wher I loaded it, but I loaded rebar once and they wanted it tarped. I am like are you kidding me, get this junk off my truck. lol
It turned out they didn't want the little tags they had on the ends that told what size it was to blow off. lolFerrissWheel, Cat sdp, blairandgretchen and 3 others Thank this. -
If youre gonna haul it often have some 4x6 oak dunnage sawn for the front. Lay one down as the flat 6" wid base then the other stood up as the 6" tall post on it. Theres a stable 8" or 10" of height depending how you orient top stick.
Now use some small scraps of 3" C channel and drop them in the pocket near the dunnage. Weld up whatever structure you want with some angle iron or whatever to hold the dunnage in place at the ends. That way you dont waste chains locking the dunnage down. Keep the lock dropins in your toolbox.Rcranch81, FerrissWheel, blairandgretchen and 3 others Thank this. -
3 peices of dunnage. 2 bottom 1 top for a triangle.
Chain front and back. Double wrapped on top. Belly wrap straps.
Chain underneath. Throw over top back to first side. Loop under and back to second side. 2 strands on top.
Rebar works loose. ALWAYS stay on top of tightened securement.
And ALWAYS check that sh** before hitting traffic.
You can't stop it from going forward. That's impossible. But you can at least minimize that forward movement.FerrissWheel, Diesel Dave, FoolsErrand and 1 other person Thank this. -
I smell a challenging commodity to tackle.
Rcranch81, FerrissWheel and Speed_Drums Thank this. -
When I belly wrap like that I throw the straps or chains over before they set the load on, that way I do not have to push it under, just a tip that saves time and hassle.
kylefitzy and Dumbitfown4me Thank this. -
FerrissWheel Thanks this.
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I’ve hauled rebar a few times but we’re 20 footers. I can’t remember how many bundles. But I always belly wrap(choker style) the front one with a chain. I wasn’t crazy about using straps. To me it seem it would cut thru them eventually. I have always had a habit using chains for any steel product. Some fabricated stuff with rounded edges I do use straps. Everyone has there own way of securing.
Rcranch81, FerrissWheel and D.Tibbitt Thank this.
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