Have dd 60 that has a rebuilt engine, Problem started 2 weeks ago, could not shift over 1500 rpm, but only intermittently, took it to mechanic, they did full service on it, filters and all, put it on computer no codes, but they did put on a new coolant sensor. Left thought it was fixed, but it started up all over again. At 1500 engine light would come on and it would lose power, let off throttle and regain. could get speed up by going gently and staying under 1500. Light would go off.
Then it happened at 1200 rpm, then under 1000 rpm and stalled out. we sat for an hour and got it going again, worked fine, till we got fuel then started again. brought it into shop, different shop, they put it on computer and no codes again. pulled out and it died and would not restart, turned but wouldn't start, mechanic pulled out fuse from ecm and put back, and it started. pulled off to side, and then he put in a tps, but it is still stalling out. The flash code on dash was 43, then later trip a 65. but both shops cleared ecm. another ecu code was 128, but mechanic said that is generic. Got a sid 254, but he doesn't seem interested in that. we had our egr fixed last year, then with hopes of better fuel mileage had it disabled. we arent having any smoking going on. no misses, when engine is running, it going good. It is an 05 freightliner, a strange thing that has occoured is that ever since the rebuilt engine was put in, the radio would shut off every hour, and reset to 1pm every so often, we chalked it up to the mechanic setting it somehow, since they put the tps in last nite, the radio has not shut off, we did get the truck to stay idleing all nite after a few stalls. The mechanic said that he thought that when they put in the rebuild they messed up the wiring or ecm. But he doesn't have time to mess with it. We need to get this fixed before we go bankrupt, 2 weeks down is hurting, 2 new sensors, and we cant afford a tow truck, oh and by the way we are workin in nd, shops are backed up and a lot of mechanics dont have time or they dont have knowledge. Please help![]()
rebuilt dd60, ecm need help
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by hotdangfire, Jan 20, 2012.
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Unfortunately I'm not very familiar with the DD Series 60 engines. I do know the earlier DD 60 engines had a check valve in the back of the cylinder head in the fuel system that would go bad and cause a fuel starvation problem with similar symptoms you are having. This should have been the first thing the mechanics looked at in my opinion.........did they?
hotdangfire Thanks this. -
Not that they said anything to us. They did do full service on it, they found a slight leak in a hose they fixed but did not mention what your saying. This last shop says they will take it back in and clean all the connections from the batteries, starter to ecm connections and see if they find anything. the radio thing and the taking out the ecm fuse to get it to start has us thinking ecm. but what with it we don't know. We'll say something to them about your opinion and have them check that out. Thanks for the comeback. Appreciate your time.
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my bet is your sensor harness is bad, or a wire is grounding out. there is a common ground to the sensors, that if any part of the ground or any other part of the harness is touching something it is not supposed to, it can cause all kinds of trouble, a lot like your describing.
hotdangfire Thanks this. -
want to elaborate more. if the ground in the sensor harness is bad, it will throw codes. for example water temp sensor, so you or your mechanic thinks it needs a water temp sensor. or oil temp sensor, or whatever the code tells you. one ground goes to all these sensors. I had mine replaced after chasing ghost codes. we could never see anything visibly wrong with the wire harness, but after replacing no more yellow or red light on dash, no more codes, no more power loss, boost loss, on & on. NO MORE. there was just 2 brand new oem entire wire harness for detroit ser 60 for $100.00 not sure if they are still available. this may not be the problem, but it is worth a look. 43 is a low coolant level. that could shut engine down, but if that sensor is good & coolant was not low, then it is in the wiring. I also have a similar problem years ago, that turned out to be corroded main hot & ground battery cables & or jumper cables from one battery to the next. good luck. keep us posted.hotdangfire Thanks this.
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To me it sounds like a ground or power problem. Take a wrench and make sure all of your battery connections are tight. Tug gently on them to make sure you don't have a bad termination (the smaller wires are usually the power to the ecm). With the truck running high idle (over 1500 since that is where your running into problems) start jiggling the harness to see if you can recreate the problem and find a bad termination. My. 02
hotdangfire Thanks this. -
Just came back out to truck, it quit idling, pulled fuse got it started, but have no inside cab lights or power in plugs. Its throwing up new codes, 25 which says on code list "no codes" that is in red flashes then in yellow flashes it s 68 which says " idle validation switch open circut" or "short to ground". these are in flashes of amber. One other question is why would we get flashes when the computer won't / doesn't read anything. anybody thinks its not grounding? or fuse or ecm? what do u think?
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heavyhaul and fortycal, your perception of the problem seems right on the mark to me, when the mechanic gets us in, we are definetly going to get him to go over these, we live in the truck, right now hubby is trying to get this thing started again as it keeps stalling out on idle. but thanks so much for your input, we have our ears wide open and will work on this.
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years ago when I drove in the northern states, the liquid salt wrecked havac on some of my exposed wiring. looking at my main cables, they looked good. still had the coating on, nice & thick. but I took a closer look, thinking liquid can penetrate farther than a solid, so I peeled back the coating near the end.
it was green & very corroded. replaced all cables, but not just that. took a wire wheel attached to my drill & cleaned to bare metal ALL contacts. frame to ground cable, new braided ground cable, starter ground & hot connections, battery, everything. that took care of the problem for 3-4 years. the second go round was much worse & turned out to be the sensor harness.
what really got me mad, annoyed, was the 2 shops I brought it to would just say, bring it in & we will hook it up & look at what codes it's throwing. o.k. hooked up... Oh' it's throwing code blah, blah, o.k. sold me that code sensor. also bought other sensors & installed too.on my way. on a load 100 miles away, same thing. so I call shop. bring it in & we'll hook it up & look at the codes. bring it in, same codes, but also more codes. I say look I have 7 different codes going off at once. NO WAY are all those sensors going bad. they ask how old is the batteries?
just over 2 years! OH' they are most likely the problem. LOOK! it is NOT the batteries. it is Not the cables, sensors, or anything that that little hand held computer tell you. it cannot be diagnosed with a computer. I need someone to think. finally after several weeks,one of the shop owners tells me, well there is a sensor harness that controls all the sensors. Now YOU tell me. PUT IT ON. finally. no more lights on dash come on, no more codes. all my electrical gauges work better, my alt, water temp, all now have accurate readings, heck even my c.b. works better. that ground or what ever in that harness drove me nut's.
other things to think about. long time ago, I told my shop man to hook up to my truck with computer & reprogram it where it will not shut engine down, no matter what code it throws. if one of my sensors go bad at 3 in the a.m. on some 2 lane back back road, I do not want the engine shutting down. if light comes on, I 'll pull over & check. I have a list of all the codes in my truck, if a light comes on & can use the over ride switch to read codes & look it up. if it tell me coolant is low, I'll look at coolant level. if coolant is not low, I am on my way & that way engine will still run, cause I had parameters changed to NOT shut down in any event.
if the parameters were as they were original. I would have been on the side of the road dozens of times. as long as the light is functional, you will know if the e.c.m. see's a problem. the light will still come on, but engine will keep running. all my sensors replaced, BIG DOWNTIME loss, going down the road cruise control on, relaxed & then the red light engine SHUT DOWN come on, is more stressful than most will know.
Bob's Buzz Thanks this. -
do you have a ddeck 3-4 or 5 ?
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