Refinishing that old paint

yeah I'm interested in seeing what will come of it...the fenders take the most abuse so we'll see. Sure made for a slick finish.

As far as your old finish...you can do alot for it. As long as you don't have clear peeling. alot of the ones I've worked on do not have a clear on them. Or do not look to have anyways. You have to remember...all shine is in the first place is a slick surface. The slicker the surface is the shinier it is...the rougher it is...the duller it is. Oxidation is what I see most of the time. You can wash and as long as its wet...its shiny. Due to the fact that the water makes the surface slick again. Kind of like what a clear would do. I have done lots of boat finishes and repairs...so it wasn't to far to working on trucks...

I start out depending on the condition of the surface to begin with...wet sanding. Normally starting with a 1000 grit. I have used 800 but do not like to. You have to remember that you are taking away some of the finish as you do this. Use LOTS AND LOTS of water. I normally have a hose with me as I do this. As you sand you will see a whitish looking substance come up...this is the oxidation and or contaminates in the paint. Only sand until it becomes smooth. You will feel this in your hand. Just keep on working and it will come. Continue to washing and keeping things really wet. Next go to 1200, 1500, then 2000. Each time you do it the finish will get smoother and smoother. Once you are at 2000 you will see a shine coming through. Once again...use LOTS of water.

After I get this done I move to a rubbing compound...the 3M products are high but the best in my opinion. The "finese" products are the ones I use. I like to use a drill because you do not have to worry about burning it as bad. The rpms are fast enough to work...but slow enough that you won't burn it. I use the mothers power balls and buffing pads made to go into a 3/8" drill. This takes more time than say a DA or grinder...but you can see what your doing before you mess it up. Again I use water. Normally a spray bottle...wet the area you are working on well...then put on the rubbing compound. I will work it until it drys and the buffer or powerball takes the majority of the stuff off. I will then spray it down with the sprayer again to clean anything that is left.

Next I will do the same with the polishing compound. I work it in the same manner being sure to use a DIFFERENT pad. Reason for this is if you use the same pad you are putting the rubbing compound on it. Do everything the same. Wet surface...put the compound on it and buff until dry or all gone. Rinse again and dry.

Lastly use a good quality carnuba wax and work in same manner. I still use the spray bottle and wet surface. put wax on...buff until dry. By now the surface will be extremly smooth...the bottles will not sit on the hood at this time. they will slide off. Whipe it all down with a soft cloth and your ready to go.

This takes ALOT of time...will cost close to $100 but will amaze you at how well it works. And it is ALOT OF WORK!! It will last as long as you watch what you wash with and keep some sort of wax on it once or twice a year.

Just remember....LOTS OF WATER...and use DIFFERENT pads for each step and you'll be fine. If you have any questions please ask. Do a fender and see what you think.

Even if its pretty bad...start with 1000 grit and see how it does first...don't just jump out with 600 or 800...I have found a couple "thin" finishes...they were about gone already...but you need to be careful with those 600 and 800 grits.

GOOD LUCK!!

 

Yeah I thought about the adhesion...I hope we don't have any trouble with it..like you said...time will tell. I was told it would be okay. The man I was working with has painted trucks and antique tractors for 20 or so years. We'll just have to wait and see. I by no means am a professional...I'm just a shade tree and enjoy the work. Its a bit of extra on the side...and gives alot of satisfaction when done.

 

Had a little interest on another thread about bringing your trucks old finish back to life. I used the same process on fiberglass boats. Our finishes over time get dull, oxidized, and dead. As long as you do not have clear coat peeling this process will work...and you'll be amazed at the results. Its ALOT of work...and takes ALOT of time...but can be done for around $100 and thats ALOT cheaper than a new paint job. The process is as follows....This is what I do. I'm sure there are other ways to do this but this has worked for me.

You have to remember...all shine is in the first place is a slick surface. The slicker the surface is the shinier it is...the rougher it is...the duller it is. Oxidation is what I see most of the time. You can wash and as long as its wet...its shiny. Due to the fact that the water makes the surface slick again. Kind of like what a clear would do. I have done lots of boat finishes and repairs...so it wasn't to far to working on trucks...

I start out depending on the condition of the surface to begin with...WET sanding. Be certain you use "wet/dry" sand paper. Normally starting with a 1000 grit. I have used 800 but do not like to. You have to remember that you are taking away some of the finish as you do this. Use LOTS AND LOTS of water. I normally have a hose with me as I do this. As you sand you will see a whitish looking substance come up...this is the oxidation and or contaminates in the paint. Only sand until it becomes smooth. You will feel this in your hand. Just keep on working and it will come. Continue to washing and keeping things really wet. Next go to 1200, 1500, then 2000. Each time you do it the finish will get smoother and smoother. Once you are at 2000 you will see a shine coming through. Once again...use LOTS of water.

After I get this done I move to a rubbing compound...the 3M products are high but the best in my opinion. The "finese" products are the ones I use. I like to use a drill because you do not have to worry about burning it as bad. The rpms are fast enough to work...but slow enough that you won't burn it. I use the mothers power balls and buffing pads made to go into a 3/8" drill. This takes more time than say a DA or grinder...but you can see what your doing before you mess it up. Again I use water. Normally a spray bottle...wet the area you are working on well...then put on the rubbing compound. I will work it until it drys and the buffer or powerball takes the majority of the stuff off. I will then spray it down with the sprayer again to clean anything that is left.

Next I will do the same with the polishing compound. I work it in the same manner being sure to use a DIFFERENT pad. Reason for this is if you use the same pad you are putting the rubbing compound on it. Do everything the same. Wet surface...put the compound on it and buff until dry or all gone. Rinse again and dry.

Lastly use a good quality carnuba wax and work in same manner. I still use the spray bottle and wet surface. put wax on...buff until dry. By now the surface will be extremly smooth...the bottles will not sit on the hood at this time. they will slide off. Whipe it all down with a soft cloth and your ready to go.

This takes ALOT of time...will cost close to $100 but will amaze you at how well it works. And it is ALOT OF WORK!! It will last as long as you watch what you wash with and keep some sort of wax on it once or twice a year.

Just remember....LOTS OF WATER...and use DIFFERENT pads for each step and you'll be fine. If you have any questions please ask. Do a fender and see what you think.

Even if its pretty bad...start with 1000 grit and see how it does first...don't just jump out with 600 or 800...I have found a couple "thin" finishes...they were about gone already...but you need to be careful with those 600 and 800 grits.

Here is a link to a boat that I did...includes pictures and a few more instructions.

http://www.crappie.com/crappie/main-crappie-fishing-forum/81458-fiberglass-gelcoat-restoration.html

GOOD LUCK!!