You can buy automotive insulation in rolls, I bought mine from the factory that supplies Kenworth. It is sound deadening and heat resistant. There are different qualities, I bought their best quality since the truck is a keeper. Cost me $1000 for 3 rolls do do the whole cab. The truck is so much cooler and quieter now.
Removing air horns and adding train horn
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by rank, Dec 7, 2015.
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Thanks large car yes the rainwater was leaking past the horns and the clearance lights...... Bad gaskets. I cut two aluminum sheet metal patches for each hole for the horns. Then used JB weld to bond one patch on the inside and one on the top. Followed up with a skim of bondo on top. Hopefully they does the trick
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[QUOTE="Ozdriver, post: 4950935, Cost me $1000 for 3 rolls do do the whole cab..[/QUOTE]
Whew!Ozdriver Thanks this. -
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Rank, Seen where you were having some problems on your second coat. Make sure your flash times are correct. In a perfect world the paint is about 90 percent dry when you lay your second coat on a single stage. Want all of the solvents out of it, but a little tacky to help hold the second coat. I seen you said you had some runs, that could be due to spray pattern, where your overlap is too much. 50% on the money. Be careful with your gun settings. You mentioned 10 PSI. That would be the minimum I would spray with at the tip of a HVLP. Usually 12 PSI is what I prefer. To get tip pressure you want to double the pressure at the inlet regulator at the gun. 10 PSI can cause you to spray a little dry, which is the last thing you want to do. Will cause orange peel, and blushing, like a spoof can look.
I almost prefer a couple of runs if I can get a real nice heavy even second coat to lay, so I get superior gloss, and avoid orange peel. Here is a trick for getting those runs out fast, after the paint is dry. You will want to do next day after paint job, as Urethane single stages are pretty tough once they set. Get you quick release tape out, tape the run so all you can see is the run. Next get a straight razor blade, and scrape the run down. Hold the razor square with the run at 90 degree angle, and scrape with it. DO NOT try to push or cut the run, just keep scraping till it is almost out. Next get some 800 or 1000 and wet sand. once you get close after you sand a little, pull the tape, and finish feathering with wet sanding. Rubbing compound, than polishing compound. Once you do this once or twice, you will fly through removing runs.rank Thanks this. -
I'm thinking about mounting one of these inside the frame rail.
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@Largecar359....5/8" air line? Your brakes must lock up when you blow the horn LOL.
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@RidinDirty11, yes there were a couple of runs after the 1st coat. You see I had a helper. He is 19 yrs old and seems to think he knows how to spray. He wanted to do it and I knew he'd never sprayed before so I let him try. I told him start in the middle and work your way to the edges but stay a foot or so inside the vertical surface. I told him we will spray the verticals at a 90 degree angle.....always keep the spray pattern perpenicular. Did the 19 year old listen? No. He sprayed the full width of the bunk from the top and the paint ran down the sides. I took over after that. There's about 8 coats on there now and I think I got them covered up.
RidinDirty11 Thanks this. -
Wow, 8 coats on a single stage. You should be able to hammer on that roof, and not have the paint chip....
I am lazy, why I use a 1.6 tip on single stage. Doing a whole truck can wear an old man like me out. Remember a truck for me includes dump box and frame rails. I can empty a full cup in about 5 minutes. Kind of wish I had a spray pot, but I do not spray enough to justify the cost for the system. Just mix a gallon at a time of doing large area like a dump box.
Time to punish the 19 year old. If you have a good buffer and a couple of old wool buffing wheels, go buy a gallon of a product by 3M called super duty. It is not cheap, but pretty amazing stuff. It has been on the market since the 70's. It was used to cut the lacquers in the 70's. It ill make quick work after wet sanding a run. Probably want to do that your self, and do the runs by hand. Now for the 19 year old. Dry sand any deep scratches in your aluminium with 40 grit, than 80 grit work your way up to 800. Same with rock chips in ends of tanks. Like painting, prep is everything for that show look. Now use the super duty, and he buffs everything out to shine. Clean pad as you go, can use big old screw driver. Next use Mothers. finish to deep shine. Way easier this way and faster. Once sanded, my shop kid can polish whole side of truck in about an hour to hour and a half, and do touch ups few months in between in about half hour a side. We use super duty like purple power. It is our first go to for clean and polish. The super duty runs about 50 bucks a gallon, but with one or two trucks, will last two or three years. That truck of yours will pop. There will still be those die hard's who swear by Jewelers Rouge and Buffs, so here are a couple of pics of the first time polish on a truck. The deck plates are sitting on the battery box to the left, and I threw a wheel shot in for you.
Make sure to post pics. You have a trailer you want to do, let me know and I will show you a fast, simple way that looks great, and fast to keep looking great.Last edited: Dec 13, 2015
rank Thanks this. -
AFTER (kinda looks like Christmas morning in the shop)
Big_D409 and RidinDirty11 Thank this.
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