Looks great Rank. OK, here is how we do our trailers. If they are really bad, we sand blast them. Local rental mart rented us a sand blast tank and Toe behind compressor for the week for 325.00. Slag was about 250.00 for a ton and a half. This was for our lowboy rebuild we did. I wanted a self contained Hyster 60 ton power fold trailer for the low load angle approach. They are hard to find, and Hyster does not make them anymore. Had to buy one from a liquidation auction. Had missing tires, rotten hoses on the engine, and needed all new LED lights. If the trailer paint isn't too bad, we use a DA sander with 80 grit, than 220 on it. Once done, we use Rustoleum primer, and primer all bare metal. Than we use Rustoleum industrial oil based paint. we use rollers on large flat areas, and brush areas that can't be rolled. We add a product called Flotrol in the top coat. It levels the paint and hides brush and roller marks as it dries. This is a really nice way as you keep taping to a minimum, and no over spray. You can mix colors as you need. Use paint mix cups to measure your mix ratios and write down. Here are some pics of the lowboy before and after for you. If you want you can PM me and I will give you my number to call.
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Removing air horns and adding train horn
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by rank, Dec 7, 2015.
Page 6 of 9
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Thanks again Dirty. You did a nice job on that trailer. And must be a bit if a rare bird don't think I've seen one in real life
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Yeah, they are. Load King makes a self contained power fold and Trailking, but only a few do. I use it for forklifts, manlifts and anything with low clearance such as paver's and rollers.
It stays busy pretty much everyday, as we haul anything that will go on it. Kind of nice as customers that know about it request it on a regular basis. -
I put them on the roof of a Daycab Classic. They tore off in philly on 95 like a tuna can lid. the vibrations and weight of the horns was too much for the aluminum. I had to rivet a new sheet under the roof and a piece of steel plate to bolt the horns to. if they are good quality horns they might have some weight. I'm using K5LAs. Get a K5LA. never worry about a driver cutting you off again lol
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Looks good! I'd love to try and paint my truck but I think it'd be a disaster doing it outdoors in the dust.
rank Thanks this. -
Northern, not near as bad as you think. I posted pics for Rank for a truck I did a hood repair on. Make sure you are on asphalt or concrete, and no breeze at all. I also make sure no bare dirt within about 40 feet. wet the ground around you, and go for it. Most single stage urethane's are set in about an hour so dust will not hurt them. Here is a pic of the hood repair and paint I did. Not ideal to spray outside, but it works. Picture is taken right where the truck was sprayed. You can see all of the dust from the body work on the rest of the truck, but we had everything taped off and covered for when we sprayed it.
rank Thanks this. -
I think I'm going to do like @lester suggested and mount the original horns under the bunk.
Question for @Largecar359: I currently have 3/16" air line running to each horn. I imagine it's factory. The horns sound like a bawling cow. If I switch to 1/2" like you suggested, do I need to up size the inlet to the air horns, upsize the valve (the thing the pull cord is attached to), up size the line coming from the tank. In other words, will the 1/2" line do me any good if there is a necked down restriction in the system?
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