I would like opinion on removing thermostats. I have a ser 60 Det. I have a manual fan switch, but was thinking of removing the the stat's during the summer months. at 90 plus temps, pulling heavy, up hill's, I just don't like the water temp gauge climbing like it does. air to air is good, new rad, a while back. back in the day, we used to take the stat's out of all our car's in the summer, ran a lot cooler. not sure about diesel engines. I know a diesel is supposed to run at a certain temp, but what I want to know is would this hurt the engine? some one told me if I take them out, the coolant, may flow backwards & overheat? is that possible? just an idea.
removing thermostats
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by heavyhaulerss, Apr 27, 2012.
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I wouldn't mess up a good thing. The engine was designed to operate with T-stats in place and as long as the coolant temp doesn't exceed the pressure cap rating and boil you will be fine. Air pockets from boiling coolant is what does damage, not coolant temp alone. As long as the cooling system holds high enough pressure the coolant will never boil.
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Bad idea.....
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Maybe they need replaced? I replaced everything in my cooling system on a C12(except the water pump). Now even if it starts to raise a couple degrees climbing hills, just kick the fan on & it falls down pretty quick.
Also run plenty of water through the condenser, charge air & radiator to keep them clean. The bugs that the wind started blowing around early this year didn't take long to really fill up the cores. -
It not only keeps coolant in the block to heat, it also keeps it in the radiator to cool.
Sorry about first post,, phone posted before I was done -
Flush the system. Get some 'coil cleaner' from an A/C tech. and clean OUTSIDE radiator coils. You'll be amazed.
CondoCruiser, Onetruckpony, heavyhaulerss and 1 other person Thank this. -
my fan just does not drop the temp enough to satisfy me. when going up a good grade, the temp still rises with fan on. I usually turn on at 195 but it will keep going up to 210 215. luckily I do not run any long hills, just the hoover, AL area, & I have to keep fan on for 20 miles or so, just a slight grade in summer & the temp rises quick. I had everything done to the cooling sys & even a new rad, when I did'nt think I needed it, cause it did not bring temp down.
I understand the theory of the coolant has to stay in the rad for a period of time for it to cool, but. lets say water temp is 200 degrees... no matter if a have 190's or 160's thermosat's or no thermostats, at that temp, wide open would be wide open, would it not. I dont think the stats close at all in the summer while driving in 90 plus heat, especially pulling a load. so what would be the difference in running with stats open & no stats? how would the engine know if the coolant is running thru open stats or no stats? years ago 10 to be exact. I thought I would let my engine fan run without me turning on manual fan. temp would rise, fan would kick on at 220 or so, then kick off at 190 or so. seemed to work real well, then a month later head gasket leak. so since then , I am afraid to let temp get past 190. never had a problem running cooler. had tried 160 stats a while back & never had a problem. at all. was thinking about going back to them. I would of kept them in, but since inframe 125,000 miles ago. shop put the new ones with the kit in. so thinking 160's back in or leave them out.
also new w.p at time of inframe. at this point, I am afraid if it gets real hot one day pulling a hill, my fan may not be able to keep temp low enough & engine may shut down. I will take the advice of the coil cleaner & outside of rad. thank you for the opinions.still considering options.
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I would check the fan hub it self I live in the so cal desert and we pull some pretty tough hills in 115+ temps the fan can possibly be slipping not enough to notice until the temps go up outside also should turn the fan on long before pulling the hill also might help to gear down even a couple gears if need be I'm not telling you how to. Drive please don't take it that way its just an opinion from experience put the biggest rad core you can get also a two speed fan system works good we have tried everything to keep or 379,s cool and its near impossible with the egr motors but the few things I have said seem to help
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You might try a few bottles of water wetter, its made by redline. The race car guys swear by the stuff, and I use it in my rig as well.
Sometimes the only option is to slow down and drop a gear or two. That always helps. I definitely wouldnt remove the stats. I think thats a bad idea all the way around. -
Like Crusty said I would flush it. You get that residue crud built up and it takes away from your heat transfer. Also keep the radiator fins cleaned out. Dust build up will hurt the airflow.
You take the thermostat out and the block won't heat up to normal operating temperature resulting in a drop in fuel economy.
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