Removing yoke from the output shaft on the worlds biggest piece of **** 8LL

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by dieselfuelonly, May 13, 2019.

  1. dieselfuelonly

    dieselfuelonly Road Train Member

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    85 year old owner of the company decided that we absolutely HAVE to get one of the old wore-out piece of crap T800s back on the road even though it hasn't been driven in 3 years and we have 3 (possibly just 2) drivers and about 6 other good running tri-axles and a quad. Our previous mechanic of 11 years quit a few weeks ago and I (maybe stupidly) volunteered to take over the shop and cut my driving down to 1 day a week. Now why I remember why I quit doing this **** in the first place and decided to drive instead.

    Truck was hard to get in 4th/8th gear and if you didn't land it just right would pop out of gear as soon as you got back on the throttle.

    I knew this was gonna be a fun one as soon as the bell housing absolutely refused to separate more than an inch or two from the back of the engine. After me and my helper fought it for about an hour I pulled the flywheel bolts that run through all the way through to the pressure plate like you would a torque converter. It still refused to let loose for a good 30 minutes until I'm finally greeted with the dinging sound of the bearing balls hitting the floor as the outer race of the pilot bearing finally crumpled sideways in the flywheel and the inner race came out seized to the input shaft.

    The inner race just laughed at my pitiful attempts with heat and a chisel to get it loose until I finally ground 2 grooves into the sides of it and sledgehammered a pitman arm puller on to it and let er rip with the impact.

    So got the input shaft out along with the input shaft bearing that appears to have spun in the case at some point (LOL WONDER WHY) and found that the fork, sliding clutch and the main drive gear are all chewed up. Scoured the Eaton manual and it looks like I'll have to pull the auxiliary housing first to remove the upper countershaft to finally be able to get the mainshaft out. That's all fine and dandy except I CANNOT get the yoke to let loose on the output shaft. I've got a puller that's the length of the transmission itself on the yoke and as tight as the 1" impact will go with it. Heated all around the yoke the best I can with the torch, problem is there's so much metal around it it all sinks off pretty quick. But she's been HOT (gonna need some new seals on the auxiliary end lol). Beat the heck out of it with a sledge while it's been under all the pressure from the puller and it just refuses to budge. Stood the thing up on end tonight before I left and poured some penetrant down on the output shaft in a pool from the yoke so maybe that'll help. Short of some kind of hydraulic puller I'm close to being out of ideas on how to get this thing out short of cutting it. But the boss would probably rather pay me a whole day fighting the thing off rather than buying a new yoke so why bother.

    Any transmission or driveline guys that can offer some advice? I'm beat.
     
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  3. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    If you're just trying to pull the aux section off the main box you don't need to pull the yoke. At least any Eaton I've ever pulled apart it didn't need to come off.
     
  4. dieselfuelonly

    dieselfuelonly Road Train Member

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    Thank you, will look more into that. As far as I can tell that's all I need to do - just remove the aux section in order to be able to get the upper countershaft out so I can then pull the mainshaft.
     
  5. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    Last one I did was a 15 speed. Just stood the whole thing upright on some large blocks to protect the input shaft, then unbolted the 2 halves and lifted the aux section straight up. If you don't have the manual, download it off Eaton's website because some aux sections you'll need to install a plate on the back aux section's countershafts or else they'll fall out when you seperate them. Check for threaded holes along the mounting flange of the aux section. They're pusher holes to help seperate the 2 housings once everything is disconnected.
     
  6. wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    Yoke stays on. Just like @AModelCat said stand it up on the bell housing or the counter shafts will be hell to line up.
     
    Humblepie, Oxbow and spsauerland Thank this.
  7. pushbroom

    pushbroom Road Train Member

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  8. dieselfuelonly

    dieselfuelonly Road Train Member

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    Hey guys, question before I heat the outer bearing for the auxiliary output shaft and place it on -- I noticed that the inner bearing isn't contacting the race on the inside of the race installed on the back of the aux section. The race is completely inserted, the aux section is tight to the back of the trans, and I've got the correct bearing (the one with longer rollers) on the inside. When the outer bearing is installed and the speedo ring and the yoke are installed and the nut torqued to 700ft/lbs, does that pull everything tight, or should the bearing be contacting the race? Just wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything. Here's a pic - thanks.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    And yeah - rebuilding this is a complete waste of time - would have been cheaper to just replace it when you figure in all the shop time I've put into this. Ended up having to cut the yoke off and split it. But I don't make those decisions, lol....
     
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