I've left marketing and advertising and am certain I want to drive a truck till retirement. I'll make roughly $10,000 per year more than I do now and I'll be on the road all the time and doing what I love - driving. I am fortunate enough to have some savings and would like to start out as an Owner/Operator with the prices of the actual Rigs being the cheapest in a couple of decades according to some stats I read. From book knowledge, I can say the next couple of years will be tough, but as gas prices, commodity prices, and lastly, wages level out, the industry will be as strong as ever. The only thing that's worrying me right now is repair costs. It's the only unknown I have. I want to buy an International...wait, I need to buy an International at this point in time, from about '03 that has 600,000 miles just because that's in my budget. Detroit 60's seem to be a long lasting reliable motor similar to a Chevy 350 block, so I feel comfortable about that one.
Hmmm...repair costs...
For 4 wheelers, I can get an oil change for $30 (used to pay $9.99 in the early 90s). I can get my starter changed for $175, a tune up done for $250 (cap, rotor, wires, plugs), and have the engine overhauled for $2000 if need be. I can get my brakes done, shoes, drums, rotors, and pads, with bleeding of lines for about $400. If I need new aftermarket struts or shocks, I can pay $500 for all of them installed, OEM a couple hundred more.
If my transmission goes out, I can spend anywhere from $800-$3000 depending on if its automatic or standard, and if the car is domestic or import. I can always find brand new tires for $150 each (with install, valve stems, etc included), and A/C repairs rarely exceed $500 unless the car has electrical problems.
Now, if I take everything that I know from 4wheelers and apply it to trucks, I'm I gonna get the right idea?
Does a Volvo repair cost more than a Freightliner's because it's Euro?
Are PACCARs, the GM of rigs - Domestic, reliable drivetrains, but need lots of care and attention to run well? Or is drivetrain down to just several manufacturer's anyway, such as Cummins, Caterpillar, and Eaton Fuller for transmissions? What needs repair most commonly, and how much does it total?
If an oil change is $200 for a rig, is it right to say everything is 8 times as much as a car's?!!?! Do O/O's have to pay more for repairs than Schneider would have to, because of "Corporate Accounts"? Can an experienced O/O help with any of my questions?
I hope I don't sound too formal. I don't need hard facts...I want opinions....tons of them.
Repair Costs for O/O's Today (Parts & Labor)
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by OneDollar95, Apr 29, 2008.
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bump...even a wheel bearing repair cost? $300? Is it common? Does it howl when it goes bad? same as car?
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Rather than go into detail what everything costs, let me give you a more managable rule of thumb to use. You obviously want to build a reserve account for maintenance and quickly. You can expect to spend between $.07-.12 for every mile that you put on the odometer(that amount depends on the age of the truck, mechanical condition at purchase, and how much of the labor you plan to do yourself as opposed to paying a shop $80-$110 per hour to do it for you.). In addition to that amount for general maintenance items, you can plan to spend $.015-.02 for tires.
What I suggest is that you open a business checking account. Deposit all of your revenue into that account and pay all regular expenses(fuel, truck note, insurance,etc.) from that account. Then open TWO savings accounts. One for your tax money and the second for your maintenance reserves. Transfer the required monies into those two accounts RELIGIOUSLY every week BEFORE you pay yourself anything. If you follow that plan, you will never have tax issues and maintenance becomes more managable.
Hope this helps. -
I agree with eskimo and have done just that. As for tires, I just put 10 on my tractor with an alignment 11R-24.5 Michellin X series, they are a bit more up front but with proper ,and I stress proper, maintenance they will pull high mileage numbers. I spent a little over 5K getting them replaced as well as a full alignment nd some other things easier to do while the wheels are off...
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Englewood and Eskimo are exactly right as usual.
It is easier to think of your costs as cost per mile.
Don't go crazy trying to figure the price of wheel bearings and starter motors-- instead just think of the whole thing as cost per mile.
I have to figure 12 cents per mile because I have an older truck and I run local, which is harder on the components. -
If your reefer breaks down in the middle of the night and you need emergency service, be prepared to pay around $450 just for the call-out.
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I really appreciate the valuable advice and tips from you guys...this is what I was hoping for...you really have to think "bigger"...refreshing!
Also, is assessing "Blowby" (how much oil is getting in your air cleaner?!) kind of like a compression test on a 4wheeler? Does it give you an idea of how long the motor will keep going till it goes? -
Hey reeferdude, is it a good idea to get a reefer trailer instead of a dry van? -
Like i already told one guy, go drive for a company. You will get knocked on your ### fast!
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The best rule of thumb is every time you put your truck in the repair shop your at least going to pay $500.00 if not more.
The cheapest thing at a repair shop is the oil change around $200.00 usually a little less.
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