I've got a new radiator for this truck and I went out this morning and took the fan clutch off of it because it's leaking air and I got to looking at this dang radiator and it looks downright hard to remove and replace.
There is a frame built around the radiator. Everything is bolted to the frame that's built around the radiator. (bolted together on both sides) There are two bolts holding that radiator support in below the radiator itself and there are two supports mounted to the side of the radiator that run at a 45 deg. angle away toward the frame. The CAC is mounted on this radiator support frame made around the radiator and the transmission cooler and A/C condenser are mounted to it too. It looks downright hard to get at. Anyone with the close to the proper procedure for doing this job so I don't have to take the whole truck apart to change the radiator? I've got the fan shroud and the fan/fan clutch out of it now. About broke my back lifting that out of it.
Replace radiator in a International 9300
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by sailboatjim, Nov 5, 2015.
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Yep, they do suck. Support your hood and unbolt the shock at the top. Unbolt your a/c condenser, leave the lines attached and carefully drape it around the side. Don't be afraid to cut the plastic or rubber air deflectors that sometime trap the ac lines. Undo your air to air clamps and hoses. Most air to air can be removed by sliding straight up or partially up and then turn to get out. Most fan shrouds can be unbolted and left around the fan. Unfasten your supports. The rad then comes out as an assembly. Mark all your rad cradle sections and where each bolt came from. Some bolts are longer than others, and if you put a long bolt into a hole that takes a short bolt you will thread the long bolt right through the new rad! Reassembly in reverse order.
MJ1657 and sailboatjim Thank this. -
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As a suggestion, tape cardboard to the fin area to prevent damage to the fins while your installing.
Heavyd and sailboatjim Thank this. -
Excellent guys. Thank you so much. As long as I know this info I'm won't do anything that I shouldn't.
I was trying to figure whether to leave the support and somehow slide the radiator out of the cage it's in and that didn't look right so I decided to ask here. Thanks so much. I'm glad I asked.
It makes sense to leave it in the cradle but I couldn't see how the a/c lines and CAC were going to remain supported with the cage support etc.etc. The CAC has to be removed. Seems like it was held in by 4 bolts. Two vertical and two horizontal and both rubber mounted.I can do it now. -
Good luck @sailboatjim. Let us know how it turned out.
sailboatjim Thanks this. -
Got the radiator out today and will reinstall the new one tomorrow or Sunday. Lots of cleaning to do.
I cannot see through the CAC at all. I wonder how much that was killing power? Amazing it ran as good as it did and it ran great. I'll get the pressure washer out tomorrow and fix that deal. It's mostly dirt too. Not oil. Once Heavy and the boys pointed me in the right direction it was a snap. Thanks so much again. -
Another suggestion, get some "foaming coil cleaner" for the CAC. It's the stuff HVAC guys use just for the purpose of cleaning evaporators, condensers ect., you'll be amazed at the gunk it pulls out. It might be available at one of the big box stores, I got mine at a HVAC supply house in the gallon size and applied with a garden sprayer. If you can, do your A/C condenser while you have it out in the open, your labor is already there. Oh, another suggestion, get a "fin comb" to straighten the fins on the condenser if any are bent over, just be careful.
Whatever course you take, be super gentle with the pressure washer. BOL and please keep us informed on your progress/outcome. I love threads like this where a person takes on the challenge and forges ahead.sailboatjim Thanks this. -
Good idea on the fin straightener (i have one) and the coil cleaner. The CAC appears to be in perfect shape. Nothing bent at all on it. The A/C condenser is a little worn as is the trans oil cooler. I'm going to take the truck next week for a rear main seal replacement. I just don't have the equipment to do that. I thought about letting them do this too but I'm determined to do as much maintenance on my truck and trailer as I can so I started it. It's going to be easy from here I think. I'm actually a pretty good mechanic, I just don't have the exact tool set I need to do this stuff. In this case I think the largest socket I needed was 3/4 or 13/16. Was going to do a rear, rear end pinion seal last week and I didn't have a socket even close to that one to do it. I still haven't figured out what socket size it is yet. I suspect it's about 2 1/4 or 2 3/8. I borrowed a 2 5/8 from a guy and it was way to big.
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IMO you're wise to farm out the bigger stuff.
Back in the day I tried to do everything myself, but when you're not a full time mechanic the cost of some tools and using them once didn't make sense and I hate to borrow tools. Plus, if you need the truck the learning curve eats up too much time.
About twenty years ago I did a clutch in my cabover, took me 5 days! Didn't save any money on that for sure.sailboatjim Thanks this.
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