You put the can on with the brakes released....remove the pins on clevis n back off slack adj...remove the can....... measure the rod on the old can.... cut the rod for the new can to whatever length it measured out to be...Remove/Install clevis on new can.........replace everything n adjust slack adjuster....apply air to brakes n you now have parking brakes....Honestly it is a 30 minute job at the most... I think you're overthinking the whole process....Pretty simple really
Replacing a Spring Brake Chamber
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by SprintCar, Jan 18, 2014.
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My old international only had maxi pods on the front axle as well. I needed them on the back axle so I put a t fitting in the main airline off the release air valve above the front diff and ran a airline to the back axle where I put another release valve in the same spot the front axle has it. Then just the two airlines from that valve to the new maxi pods I had installed. Easy peasy
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How about when you already cut the rod at point of disassembly due to the pin being seized to get the can off...what's the length of the rod supposed to be then?
The mfgr say that the best braking force occurs when the slack adjuster is at 90*,or straight up and down when full brake is applied. Past that point you lose braking power, meaning the rod is too long.
Can't be sure the last guy cut that last rod the proper length... -
Adjust your brakes, throw the maxi on and check your slack adjuster is straight up and down/90 deg as put earlier. If not and the other brakes slack adjusters are at 90 deg measure that rod length and mark it to suit the over stroking booster. Unfortunately if it is under stroking you will have to throw it out unless there is a serviceable rod/plunger part and you wanted to reuse the booster.
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