Stay away from metal even stainless for fuel lines. At least running from the tanks up to primary filter. You can run stainless up by motor but anything under truck should be cloth, rubber, silicone, etc. save you headaches later on.
replacing fuel lines on my 379 pete
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by prerunner404, Jan 5, 2016.
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I decided to replaced the fuel hoses from the "T"'s to the tanks using Parker Super-Flex FL Barrier, Series 397. I also wrapped the entire length of each hose with a spiral wrap loom to help protect them. I also changed the fuel return "T" as I had fuel leveling issues.
Next I plan to changed hoses from "T"'s to engine. I want to replace as many of the "hard" 90 degree fittings as possible at each filter head and transfer pump - 2003 pete 379 with 6NZ - any recommendations of how I can approach?
I was thinking of using a 90 degree crimp on fitting, similar to the picture I attached (hopefully I attached it correctly), at the "T"'s, the fuel filter head(s) and transfer pump. Is this a sound idea?Attached Files:
NightWind and Dirty-Low-Walker Thank this. -
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Those are called sweep 90 degree fittings .
Those are what I used when I put my 2ws together.
Use a straight fitting at all the ports then use those sweep 90 crimped on the fuel line. Just make sure you test fit and mark the fitting on hose where you want them because once crimped your done.
You can also move up a size on the line to a #8 on all the lines on engine.
Also I eliminated the primer pump with a block off plate from cat.NightWind Thanks this. -
I did all Swaan posted here, but used reusable sweep 90s, I also bored out the secondary filter head to as large as can go, but I'm not satisfied with that, the secondary has a lot of weird angles so I'm planing to install a fuel block for the return, fuel pressure valve and fuel temp sensor so I can run a primary base on the secondary and better fuel flow.
I also liked the idea of re routing the fuel feed to the back of the head and was able to go with a #8 hose, so now is returning from the front of the head, another thing that I did and probably the best of all that work, was a new fuel cooler, it's amazing how my fuel tank doesn't get hot any more it stays very cool and I'm talking about 40 to 50 degree better than before.NightWind Thanks this. -
Great info here.
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Not exactly from this people, but exact same cooler, this cooler is extremely efficient, was expecting good results but never what I got, plus being in South Florida as humid as it is here, once you get moving air feels cool, even when is around the 90s, very happy with it.NightWind Thanks this. -
This is probably what I need.
does any one know on which engine did this fuel block came?
to install one of these to do away with the original Cat secondary base, which I believe it is where all the restriction is on a the fuel system on these engines.
NightWind Thanks this. -
If I'm not mistaken the 5ek came with those fuel blocks .
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I started searching the net for the fittings and end up with Arequip but you really have to be very careful and look hard, or else it can get very expensive, you can find some of those #10 elbows for around $13, $15 each or the very same ones at another site for $60, or even way more, so start looking.
I'd try to stay away from anything Chinese.
the way I did it was from tank to primary and pump #10, from pump to secondary and engine #8 and return kept it at #6.
on my 1LW the fuel goes thru the ECM before the head, so I re route it from the secondary straight to the back of the head, then the return to the cooler and then to the ECM, after it got cool and then to the tank, this poor engine and specially the ECM has never seen cooler fuel temps before.NightWind Thanks this.
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