Rod and main bearing replacement…good deal? (copy of the bill)

You could cheap out and just replace the upper rod halfs! That's what wears out first.

BTW what engine? Does it have a brass thrust bearing like my yellow engine? If so it's missing on the list.

 

Looks right in line too me.
No I don't think your mechanic is ripping you off. That labour rate is from 1980s lol

 

Yes I think your mechanic ripped you off. I used Thompson CAT for this same job on my C15 and paid about the same money as you only my labor rate was $115 per hour plus and I had 9.75% sales tax on top of the parts, labor.

That aside it's really an unnecessary waste of money. Several mechanics with a lot more knowledge than me have commented so. They told me the same thing when I asked about it on here 4 years ago - after I had just wasted money on the job. I didn't want to hear it either...

 

I don't think it is a bad idea to do. if it is what you want for peace of mind whether it needs it or not. depending on where you had it done. I used to have cat roll bearings in engines in the past because you got one years warranty with a roll in so your covered for the bottom end for a year. but that was back when a roll in was around $800. a good oil sample program will tell you if you have wear or not as well.

 

My only concern is, did your mechanic put Loctite on the parting surfaces between the main caps and the block? Cummins specifically calls for Loctite 518 to be applied to the parting surfaces of the caps. One of my customers did not do that, and the engine ended up spinning the two rear bearings in the block, and the crank broke at the #6 rod journal. The parting surfaces between the #6 and #7 cap & the block were very badly fretted.

 

Which shop did u use for this repair