Rookie Mixer Driver (Front Discharge) Questions

I learned the hard way when I arrived on a job site for a pour with ready mix that flowed like water.

 

In between OTR/Long-Short Haul work, I drove a beater Mixer locally to big and little job sites and when that company folded, went to another local company and drove a newer beater mixer. At least both companies then used actual 10 speed shift, not those namby pamby auto-shifters.

When I learned Cement Truckering we didn't have the Internet. It was just a HANDS ON thing, like learning to ride a circus bicycle without falling.

Learned Turns by Butt Grip and Lean (might be why some driver seats were thicker in the center ). Never shut off Drum to make a turn, only when shut off Engine. Didn't always get the same truck. It was called diversity.

Water addin' wasn't a big deal, just watched the customer. They (the SMART ones) know what they want.

BEST Part of hauling Cement was the WASHOUT especially Residential: when the allowed area somehow interrupted the flow of Traffic and the colorful remarks of passing motorists back in the days when People didn't pull out a gun or attempt to run over ya, which wood have been added excitement, just hurl insults as well receive equal or worse retorts.

 

Is it an 11 yarder?

The ones I drove a gallon was about 20 seconds. It will vary per mixer.

It's real easy to flip a mixer. Just take it easy until you gain more experience.

In a 3000 psi mix, if you add 10 gallons you'll typically raise the slump an inch with 10 yards.

Does the truck have a slump meter?

I did lots of high mixes. 5000 to 8000

Takes almost no water to ruin them.

The higher the psi mix, the more cement it has in it. Takes very little water to raise the slump.

The lower the psi, the more water you need, because they use less cement powder and more sand. And it takes a lot of water to get sand wet.

The same 10 yards with a 2000 psi mix, you might need to add 20 to 25 gallons to raise the slump an inch.

Try and get it as close as you can before you leave the slump rack.

Don't get it too wet though, or you'll get rejected depending on the job.

Remember what each load looks ans sounds like as you go.

Fiber will need a pinch more water.

They have additives like accelerate that will make it real wet too, until it's not lol.

Congratulations on becoming a professional truck washer.

May The OM be with you.

 

Most trucks have an alarm on the water valve to prevent accidentally adding water. If you live in an area that freezes make sure the 1st thing you do in the morning is close your water valve.

Also, if you are too wet by 2 or 3 slumps most of the time you can slow roll the drum on the way to the job and it will be where it needs to be by the time you get to the job.

And you should stop the drum anytime you are driving on an ramp, muddy surface or uneven surface.