Don't sweat it not near as tuff as u think...as fer hookin back wagon....You r NOT gonna get that same seat of the pants feel u r used to...just make visual ck that handle is in...&if it'll make u feel better...take ur flashlight & go under and shine it and see the jaws are locked&ur not high hooked ...I also w/the truck off&in gear....go to back if front pup....and ck that lock bar is rite to pintle hook...then go to back wagon&crack both air valves&as long as u have air comin thru..then ur lines are good across the board...other in that no biggie&as mentioned earlier gentle on wheel&don't spend too much time in mirrors...harder u look back there...the more that back wagon will wiggle...and as the ok skoolers say "Keep em tite" which basically means start throttle...gentle up thru gears...and easy brakin so it all flow as on unit...jus relax you'll do fine.....
Running doubles on Monday
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Just don't watch the mirrors and worry about that rear pup dancing around.
It will follow no matter what.
Just watch any quick moves with the steering wheel.
I used to love when 4 wheelers would pace me....wiggle that back wagon and they would move on and out of the way!....lol!
What ever you do, don't unlatch the pintle without cranking the dolly's down on the 2nd trailer ( thinking it will stand alone as a unit) I've heard of people doing that, and the dolly flies up in the air. ( I think CJ ran off screaming into the night)
I liked doubles, despite the hassle of breaking down and hooking sets. The advice given here is good, like not worrying about the back box, which will follow the front box if you don't stress on it and just drive the truck, not look back and worry about it. If you've got your tractor and front box where they should be in your lane the back box will straighten right out on its own.
No need to try 'adjust' for the back box or you'll make matters much, much worse. Let the back box do its thing. Follow. It 'knows' how.
At my stop, I would always try get the back box as far into a hole as possible if there were 2 available, then drop the back box there and pull off with the front box and park the con gear where I could get to it easily, spot the front box and go back and finish spotting the back box. Most likely, you won't have two doors and don't try to back the back box while you're new to sets anyway.
But when you have time and some experience it feels good and like an accomplishment to get even a little backing progress on a set of doubles.
Moving the con gear around with your tractor's a lot easier backing than pushing because the short con gear turns really fast, the tractor turns slow. It follows like a trailer better than it drives like pushing a shopping cart. All our trucks had pintles on the front bumper for just that reason. When you're ready to hook up, make sure your back box is parked where you have ample room to hook the entire set, tractor and all, before you try hook up. That way you're not in the way more than necessary.
Turns are a breeze compared to a 53' box behind you.
If I recall (it's been over 30 years), we tested our air lines at the back of the front box before and the con gear after connecting the con gear lines so you know there's no obstruction, like ice and you've confirmed air flow. That's an especially good idea if it's a con gear you haven't used before. Just like approaching a 'new-to-you' trailer with caution and scrutiny.
Helpful if you have a Johnson bar in the cab that stays in open position, doesn't just spring back. No need to set it wide open, just enough to blow some air through.
Once you've got the set all hooked, crack your valves at the back of the back box to confirm air flow and that you've got them off before you start out. Don't want to be losing air back there when you're starting off...Last edited: Feb 14, 2015
To sum up:
1) Let your back box follow, don't try 'adjust' for it.
2) Where you have opportunity to back hooked set up for practice, take it! (Don't expect much.)
3) Con gear follows tractor backing up better than tractor trying to push it into position.
4) Set up and break down where you have ample room and not more in the way than necessary.
5) Check air lines by opening and closing rear valves, especially back box.
i pulled doubles for several years. dont know why. i thought i was paying my dues.
now i pull a 40/20 locally when the kid takes a day off but its flatbed so no breaking up.
i would not do it again unless it payed very good. used to get an extra 10$ to unload. forget it
When I train new folks I tell them to remember "5 is the magic number". Run 5 mph below the speed you would run a 53' at. Crappy weather? 55 in a full trailer - 50 in pups. Etc.
Steer smooth. Brake evenly. Easy does it.
Back your dolly in front of the LIGHT trailer. Drop it. Go grab your lead trailer. Hook up as normal making sure the pass thru valves are closed. Back in front of dolly. Hook the dolly on the pintle hook. Connect the safety chains. Air up the dolly and release the dolly brake. Make sure the dolly pass thru glad hands are connected on the blanks so the air won't bleed out. Back the front trailer/dolly under the rear trailer. Tug test and check the kingpin like normal. Hook up air and electric from the dolly. Check rear pass thru valves on last trailer. Make sure they are closed and sealed.
PTI like normal.
Common problems are ABS and dolly jaws not properly closing. You can check the jaws for freezing or excess grease, but the springs can also wear out. Double-triple check both kingpins, the pintle lock and both safety chains. Tug test. Then do it again before you leave the gate.
Good luck.Victor_V Thanks this.
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