Series 60 12.7 coolant put of overflow

As you know, mine was .001 under. I'd have still cut it knowing the new specs, but Freightliner dicked me around for 4 days and then said the tool was effed.

No problems so far, but i will probably retorque again at 100k.

 

Tear those pages out!

That will cause a dropped valve. You need valve overlap. That a bad deal they revised.

 

I've ran em that way forever. I've had just a few customers I got to see the lifetime of their engine I built, serviced, etc.

No problems. But I won't fault either method. Way back I would do one, then the other, just to see what the difference was.

Hardly any.

Pretty sure overlap ended with lower HP, and IMO that's what Detroit wanted with engines failing. Pretty sure valve overlap came in with the PK's

Just a guess though, cause we never dynoed one run that way.

 

What I've see as a issue is more human air. That was why they went to overlap. Make it less possible for the mistake. But 2001ish got a big long letter from DD explaining it, I should have saved it. They had some big concerns. I'll never do a timing circle again.

 

Can you explain the difference? I’ve seen the circle chart. Got a copy from a DD dealer years ago. Seemed like the same instructions. Just laid out in a circle. I’m getting ready to do my first overhead.

 

I can dig it up tomorrow maybe. It's about the position and timing. It can work, and it can fail.

 

No hurry. Just curious, I recall you mentioning before. Wanted to ask but didn’t. Best example I’ve seen is on YouTube. Joseph Gingrich video series on rebuilding a 12.7. He bars it over till the roller moves freely. Neat trick. Seems like an accurate way to find exact overlap.

 

I can not find it, not even on Google. Only thing I have is Valve Overlap. I can not locate older timing circle method.

 

I'll say this about the 2. Overlap is a guaranteed spot. I can't tell you the timing circle, it's something I'd have to show. I can tell you follow the firing order, adjust the valves on the cylinder that the injector roller is coming up on, and the injector on the opposite cylinder.

That spot though, where you stop, I can't tell you. Guys would adjust valves anywhere from the start of the downward stroke, to bottomed

Injector roller position in the timing circle is a bit subjective, while overlap is not.

I've had great success adjusting where I do. That's why I still do it that way

 

I started to do mine today. I ended up booking a load. I hate to take it apart, just in case I screw up. Going to have to really take my time. Got a load coming right back. It’ll have to wait another 2200 miles. I’d really like to re torque the head, swap in a reman rocker assembly, new oil pump, accessory drive and ps pump. Replace the oil cooler, o rings and gaskets. Along with a reman compressor, water pump, and fuel pump. That would completely cover everything. All that’s original except for compressor and fuel pump are about 6 yrs old. Water pump has about 500k already. I’ve been piece mealing this Truck for 15 years. Starting to replace things a second time before getting everything else done. I worry about the accessory drive and ps pump bearings going bad and ruining my bull gear. Is that possible? I need to prioritize and do one thing at a time. Rockers seem good. The accessory drive, ps pump, oil cooler are all original w/2.5 mil miles. Oil pump was replaced w/new at first inframe 825k. Bull gear was original, lasted 2.3 mil miles. Was still good, replaced it this time. Only did elbow and check valve this time. Currently have 160k on the new inframe. What do the Pros think? Lol.