If it is stuck because it is cammed over, You can usually smack the slack adjuster and break it free. If it has the s cam tubes and not been greased properly, and rusts up inside of them, I have had to take everything lose and use a big pipe wrench and work them for a while to get them freed up enough that the brake springs would turn them.
I have never seen anybody bust a rear trying to get rusted or frozen shoes loose, but have seen several axles break.
Even if you remove the wheels, you will still have to bust the shoes loose to get the drum off, but you will be able to hit it much more solid.
The dust covers should only have either 3 or 4 bolts holding them on, depending on the type, and you shuld be able to get to them from above if there is no trailer on it.
Seriously dumb question about frozen/rusted brakes
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Canucklehead, May 13, 2019.
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Well these dust shields have approx 10 bolts and some fairly large. I've seen graphics of backing plates and shields, but they show as different pieces. What's on the truck is a solid piece. And the edge of it comes over and past the drums. Weird I know. I have to assume I don't have a spider in there. When I first took a look I thought maybe they were disk brakes. Never seen them on a truck before and don't know how they work on trucks and the parts etc. I got this thing in October and promptly broke my leg after that. So I had only gotten around to repairing and replacing 14 things. Fan hub, air to air, etc etc. It had been a working truck and the brakes worked fine with me so I never took a good look at them. The CVI had expired between then and now, my leg is back in action. So besides the ongoing issue with the bloody headlights (irritating no schematic at all hassle), this is a new issue with the brakes that is preventing me from grabbing a contract.
Thanks for the info regarding breaking expensive stuff. An axle is a whole bunch cheaper than a locking diff.
Right now I don't know what I'll be loosening or taking apart with the big bolts on the shield. I get what the small bolts are. I'm not a small guy and I don't have a jack or stands. So moving around under there is real tight. Too bad cinder blocks crumble, otherwise I would pile them up and dump my bags. I have wimpy 1/2' CP impact gun, so can't take the wheels off. Wife won't let me have an oxy/acetylene ( she thinks me being an ex steel fab guy meant I sat a desk lol) so I'll I got to cut with is a little sterno torch lol.
They had been working fine when I came home the last time. Therefore I don't think it's cammed all the way over. My luck it's probably that half way tip crap. I hear about the push rod, although I would probably try a little heat on it first, before the pipe wrench.
As for busting shoes or the drum, the slack, or even the s cam, I don't care, those are all cheap. That's half the price of a tow, less than if the drive shaft had to be pulled.. And about 15 minutes into a road call. I haven't priced an axle yet. Even if I went and bought all the equipment I needed I'd still save money busting all that.
And there is no trailer on it. It's sitting in my driveway in a cul d sac. Sadly, it's backed 2 feet from the house. And unlucky to have a slight slope with that stamped concrete surface (pebbles) that's slipperier than an eel. Not great for chocks and gravity.
I know the thing isn't frozen frozen. But I already beat the snot out of the drum from the outside. So I'm beginning to think it has cammed the evil half way. ####.
No rain for sure tomorrow, so I'll either make myself a pancake or have my head taken clean off. Ahhh the joys of having your own truck....Cat sdp Thanks this. -
Just lock the bloody lockers in, put it in low or reverse and slowly let out on the clutch. Don't give it any fuel. You will either break loose the brakes or kill the engine long before you break anything else. Worst case you might crack the pads in they are rusted to the drum really badly
rank and Canucklehead Thank this. -
That sounds sensible Lester. One of my to do things is to replace the clutch one of these days. It grabs like a demon. Is adjusted perfectly. So just popping it slowly will give it a good jerk anyways.
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Locked everything up. Still no go. But dragged it a couple of feet forward, but won't reverse.
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The slack moves. So I think it is the cam. Grrrr
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If the slack is moving, so is the cam. I am prone to belive the shoes are just rusted to the drums If it drug it a couple of feet, some must have broke free.
If it is sitting on a slope be careful breaking it loose with a hammer. I got in a bad situation once. I killed the motor and put it in gear so it couldn't roll, while I got under it and broke it free. It had a little slack in the drive train and moved (Bounced) against the gear and jumped out of gear. I was on a pretty steep slope, but it got ugly real quick.rank and Canucklehead Thank this. -
Yeah I hear you.
When I'm under it I have it in reverse cuz it's nose down, and 4 chocks, two for the steers, and two for the rears. And I make sure myself and my arms and legs are between the frame rails.
The one that's frozen is on the driver side front axle. The one that I did break free was the axle behind it same side. All the rest are fine. I was under it again today, and turns out that it has a backing plate, and yes, one shield. Weird thing is, the shield is split on one side and not the other. So I guess I'll have to manhandle it out of there by twisting it or something. I will then see if the cam is ok, and then wail some more on the drum.
I think while I'm at it I'm gonna get rid of all those shields on each brake. A couple are missing a half anyways. And DOT does the same thing as with beauty lights. If one works or has one, then all must. So they all must go lol -
The shield is suppose to only be split on one side, it is split part way on the other side and bends apart right there, it is easy, no manhandling or twisting. Just grab the two parts on the split side and bend it apart far enough to take it out.
If you want to play it safe and are worried about your chocks, release the brakes and cage the one that is still frozen then set the brakes, and you will be able to free it up while the rest are still holding.Hammer166 and Canucklehead Thank this. -
Ahhhh you speak words of wisdom.
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