Have the above issue. Why did the dealer suggest a complete replacement? Sounds fishy to me. Found out that I can get a seal kit from Sheppard and replace it in less than an hour myself with the gearbox left on the truck. Even have a youtube video on how to do it. Do you guys replace seals or the whole box on your trucks?
John
Sheppard M100 Gearbox leaking input shaft
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Hogleg, Apr 30, 2017.
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I've changed quite a few input shaft seals. I don't remember the models of the boxes but they were super easy. Easily do-able in a half hour. Not sure why they'd suggest a new box?
Hogleg Thanks this. -
Replaced the input seal in my Sheppard box once,was not a big deal.Been a while,but I remember something about you no longer grease the input fitting there after seal replacement.
Did you know Sheppard used to make farm tractors?They built diesel engines for a lot of years,then figured out there was more money in making steering boxes.Heres one of mine.1953 Sheppard SD-2.
BoxCarKidd, bigguns, Hogleg and 1 other person Thank this. -
It depends on what brand of box it is and where it's leaking.
I just had my Ross/TRW TAS65 rebuilt because it was leaking out of the vent hole on the side cover, which meant the sector shaft seal was leaking from the shaft being worn.
On my particular box, just the seal could've been replaced, but if the shaft was worn, it could've started leaking again in a few months, so it was more cost effective to rebuild the whole box.
Additionally in order to replace the seal, the box needed to be pulled off regardless.
In your situation, because of liability and profits, the Stealership isn't going to just pop a new input shaft seal on, as they won't make much money on the job, plus if something else goes wrong with the box, they don't want to be responsible.
If you can get away with just replacing the seal to fix your problem, then I would do just the seal, but if your box has alot of miles and has other problems, I would just rebuild the box.Hogleg Thanks this. -
The dealer wants the most trouble free and least headache inducing repair option for you. Everyone wants the cheapy repair, I understand that, but we don't want you coming back with one leak after the other. Yes, changing an input seal is easy and quick, but it isn't guaranteed to fix the leak. Many times the input shaft has a small groove worn into it from the old seal. If the new seal rides anywhere close this grove, it will leak over and over. Then you come back complaining because your cheapy repair didn't work and the repair shop gets bad-mouthed. We replace the whole gear with a complete reman to avoid this. Not only that, but by the time you need you a new input shaft seal, chances are the gear has enough hours on it that other seals and components are at the end of their useful life span. Therefore, replace the gear, get a full warranty, and make it only one visit to the shop and be done with it.
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Trying to sell the truck, so I will try the $25 seal kit. If that does not work not out that much $$.
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In that case I would just spray the area with brake clean and wipe it.
Hogleg Thanks this. -
I would like so but it is leaving a puddle under the truck at the consignment lot. Instant turn-off. Gotta do something.
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On some steer boxes it can leak out through the end of the steer box input shaft, not the seal. If that was the case you would need a new box.
Hogleg Thanks this. -
I agree with Heavyd, you cannot fully inspect the shaft without pulling it out, so a seal is a crap shoot. I would try it on a personal truck, but I'd never do one for a customer. Too high of a failure rate and liability. So I do not think the dealer was trying to screw you, they just don't want a comeback and don't want the liability.
For your situation, it wont hurt to try. Be sure to change the filter too. I'm not sure on a Sheppard, but the input seal on a TRW seals return oil to the reservoir. A clogged filter adds pressure there and can make any leaks worse.
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