Shifting a 10 speed uphill

Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by montrose818, Sep 7, 2018.

  1. stillwurkin

    stillwurkin Road Train Member

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    Exactly. Both counts. We have 6% grades. 15% wow. Like steep. Some steep upgrades I leave it in gear and pull slow and steady. You can do tons of damage trying to catch gears on a hard pull. Coming into Brookville Pa rt36, you have to make a left at bottom of a very steep hill, if I get a green light I can start hill in mayby 3rd or 4th. Red light not so much, 2nd mayby3rd. No shifting on hill, grind up and let the traffic stack like cord wood. I can't help that nice hardwood grows in hilly terrain.
     
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  3. stillwurkin

    stillwurkin Road Train Member

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    On a steep upgrade you can't build enough momentum to change gears , so leave it in a pulling gear, set back and relax. Be glad you are not pushing a loaded wheelbarrow up that hill.
     
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  4. Jwhis

    Jwhis Heavy Load Member

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    Rev it higher
     
  5. J Rich

    J Rich Medium Load Member

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    1. Learn to float gears. You are also cutting your clutch life in half. Employers don't like replacing clutches.

    2. Be fast! I have had grades pull in 5th all the way to the top. RPM drops to far to go to 6th.

    3. Pull that gear all the way to 1800 RPM minimum till you upshift.

    4. Did I say STOP double clutching.
     
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  6. montrose818

    montrose818 Light Load Member

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    Thank you for the replies! To answer some questions..

    1. No jakes on the truck
    2. I have tried going to 1500-1600, but the engine (maxforce 13, I know) seems like its screaming at 1500, and still no shift
    3. I have never tried to float, have tried to double clutch by the book. I guess this is what I need to practice next.
    4. I am definitely not worried about making it to the top faster, I just want to be a better driver. I do hear guys shift on the incline, just wondering how its properly done.

    Thank you again for the replies, I have some stuff to practice it seems.
     
  7. J Rich

    J Rich Medium Load Member

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    Maybe you know it as an "Engine Brake"? If you are going down grades more than 6% you can't just be relaying on your foot brake. If so that's a good way to get you or someone else killed.

    What make and model is you truck?
     
  8. Bean Jr.

    Bean Jr. Road Train Member

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    I know it's an International because it has a Maxfarce 13 in it.
     
  9. shatteredsquare

    shatteredsquare Road Train Member

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    you need to take the rpms higher before you try to shift on an uphill. if you take the RPMs to 1400 and shift, by the time you get it out of gear and start double clutching to the next, the RPMs are already at 1200. that would be fine on the flat, but since you're going uphill, the truck decelerated all by itself from gravity, so the road speed you're going now is only going to let the gear you're trying to stab fit in at 1000 and it's going to lug (not going to work). you need to take the RPMs higher (1500), float out of the gear (don't need the clutch) and very lightly press the clutch to push the next gear in as the RPMs fall from 1500 to 1200. if you're on the throttle in a gear, gently pull on the stick towards neutral, then let off the throttle while still keeping tension on the stick. when you let off the throttle the gear will just fall out into neutral. if you keep pulling towards the next gear while still off the throttle, when the RPMs get to the right spot the gear will fall into place as easily as it fell out into neutral. you can grind a little as the RPMs fall down until it falls in the hole, you can press gently so it's not abusive, the harder you press the more friction you'll make. when the RPMs get to the right spot you could push the gear in with your pinky finger, if you're doing it right it doesn't take any force at all. after a little while of grinding on the way down you'll know where to push based on engine sound and you won't have to grind as much. better to grind a little on the way down (RPMs) because that way you can't miss the hole, if you're pressing on it it will fall in the hole on the way down. you can get away with never using the clutch again when you figure out where to push the gears in, just use the clutch to start from a stand still.
     
  10. stillwurkin

    stillwurkin Road Train Member

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    Double clutching does not wear out your clutch!!!! I have double clutched 44 years and also float. Eaton says to double clutch. All or some of you always talk about floating gears..I think to sound like a supertrucker, or super cool. Anytime a driver causes grind or impacts the drivline, it shortens the life of components. I will never know, but would be interested to, how many u-joints, trans, and rears some have tore up. Trying to learn to float a gear or two. Especially on a steep hill. Or shortned the life of components. Smooth is the name of the game. Thats how one makes stuff last and last. Maintenance also. So someone said shift like your mad at it..really? Glad he doesn't drive my truck. One more question, how does double clutching wear it out?
     
  11. J Rich

    J Rich Medium Load Member

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    Every time that clutch disc engages and disengages with the flywheel and pressure plate it wears the disc ever so slightly. Kind of like the brake shoes. Every time you touch the brake pedal you take material off the shoes.

    I would think after 44 years this would not need explanation. And, that's okay because I wouldn't want to drive for someone who doesn't know these basics.

    There is nothing "Super Trucker" about it! The OP wants to be able to shift up hill. Speed is the name of the game here. Floating is faster than double clutching. Some of us are fast and smooth. Some of choose not to be the A Hole holding up other truck drivers.
     
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