So you want to "own " your own company

I'd be happy to.

We fellas have to stick together, after all.

I'll tell her that her man has hidden, untapped innate intellectual and mechanical abilities, and that he could very easily be an aerospace engineer with his knowledge and abilities.

If she starts down the path of, "Oh yeah? How much do those engineer-types make?" I'll simply say, "Well, they can make upwards of 100 grand a year...but they are mostly pencil-neck pocket-protector sportin' booger eatin limp-wristed little-d!^k geeks with the handshake of a wet fish."

Sometimes we just have to remind them how fortunate they are to have a real man - as much of a pain in the ### as we can be.

 

I've got a question about getting my own authority. Could I go ahead and get my DOT and MC numbers now, even if I don't plan on getting insurance for a while? I know they won't be activated yet, but could I go ahead and get them? Also, what happens when you get your authority and let's say a year down the road you let your insurance lapse? Do they contact you and tell you your authority has been revoked, etc.?

 

I think I remember my authority notice stating if I didn't have insurance by a certain number of days that my application would be closed. (30 or 60?)

You will get notice that your authority is in jeopardy every day of your life starting about 10 days late on a payment until it's gone. It's up to your individual insurance agent how long his office will keep you covered once you start going late.

 

That's what I was thinking. It works that way with my pesticide applicator license. Once I passed the test I had to bind my insurance, then get my agent to fax a copy to the Dept. of Agriculture (State Capitol in OKC) before they would actually issue the license. If you let it lapse the Dept. of Ag sends you a "Stop Work Order" in the mail. After that, if you get caught spraying pre and post emergent on someone's lawn you're subject to a $10,000 fine, etc. I figured the trucking authority worked the same way.

 

The blind leading the blind in this subject.

 

Feel free to correct me.

 

I'm reading your thread "load boards" in another window. I'm on page 4 so far. Did you ever get lessons on running an end dump?

 

No, I went hopper instead. I don't regret it. It was easy to pick up.

 

Hey, i'm on page 81 of your thread. Nice truck man. I'm at the part where your fuel pump went out after your experience in the mountains. I bet that made ya pucker. LOL! About the end dumps...there's nothing to it. Make sure you're rig is level before you raise it up. Also make sure the area in front of your trailer tires is level and solid, because after you raise it up all the way you will have to pull forward in order to slide out from under your pile before letting it down. Remember that everyone dumps their own style. Some lock the tractor and walk the trailer forward. Others lock the trailer and walk the tractor back. Sometimes you have to raise it up a little and then pull up, then raise it some more, etc. The reason for this is if you're hauling sand or gravel and raise the trailer all the way up, you will more than likely pull your mudflaps off when you creep forward to slide out from under your pile. Another tip, if youre dumping at a construction site where the ground is soft, get lined up with where you're going to dump, then pull forward and back up 4 or 5 times the length of the trailer. What this does is it packs the ground down real tight so that it's more stable when you get the trailer in the air. Most "barrel trailer" end dumps are stable because both axles stay on the ground. Aluminums are a little more risky because you're tag axle goes up with the trailer.