Some maintenance advice and driving as well.

Mr Pyrometer decides what I do with the engine upgrade. In the old iron the thing does not come alive or wake up until somwhere above 1800 Expect to shift down at 1900 and shift up at 2300 plus. If Mr Pyro reaches the 2 minute thermal zone at 1450F you took the next gear down and hold a rpm high enough gently enough where it's hardly dont any kind of work.

Today's trucks can climb. It's the gettigng down that gets people

 

I run with Rotella.

Climbing long hills I find that keeping rpm's in the 1400-1600 range is best, because the engine will overheat. If you try pulling that long grade at 1200-1300 the engine fan can't spin fast enough to keep things cool.

I don't have a pyrometer in my own truck, but have plenty of experience in trucks that have them. Keeping exhaust temperature at or below 1000°F is critical. From my experience pulling hills with a Pyrometer, I know that trying to pull a hill with the accelerator FLOORED for miles on end is NOT the right thing to do. You should be able to pull that hill with some extra room for the accelerator. Downshift early.

At times I will manually engage the engine fan before starting a steep grade when it's hot. That helps get ahead of the curve in terms of keeping your engine cool.

Downshift early before that steeper section. Bring those rpm's up and then be fairly light on the throttle to ease into that steeper section.

After topping out don't floor it to get maximum speed in a hurry. Low gravity to help you and save your fuel while keeping the engine cool.

 

7

1450 is 200+ degrees higher than the melting point of aluminum.

Unless its an O/O spec truck I've yet to see a cascadia with more than 5 gauges. The epa has em so cut back you'll never see above 900 in factory setting

 

I agree with Brett, unless you have a super tuner like bully dog or pitts power or something of the like.
Hold it to the floor cause the putter won't let you damage it. LOL

 

A turbo with a bigger A/R helps 10 fold. More fuel = more air to keep temps in check.....and low comp piston help with egt/cyl pressures if your going all out. Bump the timing just a tad, its give and take. You raise cyl pressures but egt will be lower from it giving the fuel more burn time instead of it being injected closer to TDC and going out the exhaust.

Dont idle your dd, change oil 12-15k and get this super low rpm nonsense out of your mind.

 

When I started driving truck 55 years ago we fired up the ole 238 screaming 6-71 Detroit and stayed in the right lane and hoped we could make it to the top, but look out on the downhill side!