18" kingpin also helps. We had a 53' with an 8' upper deck. That thing sucked. It ate many many mud flaps.
Here's comparison between 2 full aluminum trailers. Both made by Benson, 1 flat and 1 step. You'll notice that the profile for the frames are actually similar except for near the back where the step frame has to get much thinner to leave clearance for the axles. Also the step does have a steel frame up front where it is thinner as well as for the drop. These trailers also weigh within 500lbs of each other even with the steel neck on the step. The main beam in the middle is almost the same thickness. The flat has significantly more arch to hold the same amount of focused weight as the step. It takes around 60,000 lbs to flatten out my flatbed whereas the lower deck of the step stays flat whether it's empty or loaded with 48,000 lbs
Good point on the weight @rank My next question is what to the removable ramps that store underneath the trailers weigh? Comparing apples to apples. I guess I see an advantage with the removable ramps where if you don't need them you could always take them off but I wouldn't want to be doing that a lot. I'm just doing my homework and asking for future reference. In my head I am picturing a 53'combo 43' lower with beaver tail. I would like to try to haul equipment as much as possible. maybe it's not the best trailer idk it's just what I'm picturing. There has been some good replies and I'm learning a lot off this post. Thanks guys!
+1 to what @cnsper said. That taper can be a weak point on step decks. Some might ask the question "How can some manufacturers offer a lower deck height than others?" Answer is they must be shortening the height of the beams over the axles and would not be as strong IMO. We cracked both main beams on an all aluminum Reitnouer step right at the taper.
The 43' lower deck, also includes the beaver tail, right? So it would really be a 48' trailer + beaver tail? I have no idea how they measure when you buy a new one. Another thing, if its an option for you, is to make a removable beaver tail. You need a forklift to put it on, but if that's an option, it works really well. If your familiar with how a "Hawkeye/Pedershaab" "PipeMaster" attaches... No bolts, T-slot slide to hold the top of the tail, bottom pivots down and gets pinned. I made one for my flatbed, and although I don't use it often, its handy when I need it. *Edit* For me on a step it would be a problem to have the beaver tail on all the time. Not sure how common it is to have that problem though...
Charliek I'm assuming it's like a gooseneck where the dovetail is included but the ramps fold up and make it level for the end. It's like my goose neck is a 32' it it's 27' plus a 5' dovetail that the ramps make it level all the way across the 32'.
On the ramps figure 100 lbs each including the hangers so 400 extra for a set of 4. HD makes the premier ones; don't fool with cheepies. Equipment: bear in mind most places you load and unload will have a ramp. Your ramps are for those occasions where there is none and you should command a premium fee. The other advantage is you can use one set to access your upper deck. My point is the beaver tail is going to force you to use your own ramps in essence; where maybe 85% of the time you really wouldn't have to. Please bear in mind: beaver tail or no; on a step it is VASTLY easier on your trailer to go straight on or off @ a dock vs. point loading the bejezzus out of the very end of your trailer. Just food for thought.
Very good points! All those points make perfect sense to me! You can use the ramps as load levelers also correct? Thanks for the insight guys! Elogs wiill determine my path but I'm doing my homework now just in case. I've started buying chains, binders , v boards and straps. Either way it goes whether I continue livestock or not I would like to get a stepdeck eventually....