Tandem Setting Formula

Sounds similar to the method I follow. This applies to most of my companies trailers. I am usually fairly close in estimation this way and generally have to scale it only once to get it legal. It also helps if I can look at the way the load is configured inside the trailer i.e. loaded all the way to the tail or double stacked. Really though, it has always come fairly easy to me.

 

I have always found it easy as well. The one thing I hate is picking up pre-loaded trailers because you have no idea how the trailer has been loaded.

 

Any formula assumes that the weight is evenly distributed. That's not always the case.

A couple weeks ago, I picked up a sealed load that gave me a gross of 79K, but my drives were 35K with the tandems at hole 11.

Tandems slid forward to the pin (hole 4), the drives scaled at 34600. 7 holes shifted 400 pounds.

 

To me that makes no sense, but then again nothing makes sense.

 

It was a mixed product load. Nearly 20K of liquid (in gallon bottles) was the first thing loaded. A significant portion of the load was being carried forward of the 5th wheel. There was very little weight in the rear half of the trailer.

 

My head hurts..I hope all of you are happy? You broke my brain with all these
formulacations,and hippie psychic geometrical configurations that no good trucker
was ever meant to know.
I just throw a beer can at the scale house,and floor it.
I multiply 1 6.0 alcohol content by a 60 mile radius divided by pork rind input per hour.

 

Hole spacing info is critical when trying to compare loads... IE, if you had 3" holes instead of 6"... moving 7 holes is really only moving 3 holes if compared to a 6" trailer.

How many inches were there per hole?

 

I'm with ya there. Lol!! We are truckers, not astrophysicists. Let Steven Hawking figure this out, and hammer down!!!

 

It's a pretty good algorithm to use. Except in my experience the hole to weight ratio varied even though I used the same exact trailers. I pulled Reefer and saw the amount of fuel in both the Reefer and tractor made exceptions. I'm not saying you're wrong just that there are other variables including how it is loaded.
I saw that the hole per weight ratio varied between 250-400 lbs. I think S.Tex is right if you drop two zeros off the weight of the cargo you can use that number per hole and still use the algorithm you speak about. I was taught both by different people when I had an issue.
The problem with refusing to take an overweight load is they can put in on your DAC. My old DM was a prick and did it to me. Make sure the is no texted proof of a refusal especially on the QualCom. Some companies will pay for the overweight tickets. Call and ask to check. No texted proof of a refused load! I can't stress it enough.
I want to add two things that I feel are important factors. Fuel is 8 lbs. a gallon. Multiply fuel capacity by 8. It's always best to be full when you pick up a load that way your under with 3/4 of a tank and less.
The other is this, make sure if you adjust your 5th wheel setting you are aware it changes the length of the truck and the turning radius. It's also important to know the 3-0-3 rule. You want 3 ft from the back of the tractor to the trailer. This way if you jack-knife park the way you must sometimes to fit in a spot you don't bend a fairing on the tractor. Obviously you want 0 space between the 5th wheel. You also want 3 ft from the mud flaps of the tractor to the landing gear of the trailer.3-0-3. Make sure you are aware if you are less. You will have an issue in a conventional.
Most companies have free scales and a re-weigh is a buck. Why wouldn't you check it to be sure? I do.
Lastly, you should know the weight of your tractor, trailer, and fuel capacity. They all factor into the total weight. Then you know the weight limt of the cargo you can carry. We are supposed to be "professionals" to keep the roads safe.
This is a good thread. I'm glad you posted it. Be safe.

 

I've been just fine using my "ballpark" method, which assumes you can see inside the trailer. If your trailer mudflaps are slightly behind the back of the rearmost pallet, you're usually in the ballpark. Always go to the nearest scale to make sure, but using this method, I have never had to make more than small adjustments. Of course, this assumes that you're not loaded all the way to the doors.