The easiest way I've kept track of my flaps is to roll the tarp up to the flap, then roll the flap back to the tarp, then bungee it up.
Plus, that way when you get it on top of the load, you just put it apt 2' back from the front or rear edge, pull the bungee off, and the flap falls right to the deck, and you can roll the tarp over the top without having to unroll, and then reposition the tarp to get the flap in the right place.
Tarping before or after securing?
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by bigNATURE, Feb 14, 2015.
Page 6 of 7
-
-
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
-
Well Bignature I hope you get good service out of those 14oz tarps. We bought some in the past and they tore pretty easily. Of course they were used on some machinery loads and that didn't help. If you use them on bagged products or lumber you probably will not get as many holes. Regarding light weight tarps, we've had good success with Cordura tarps from Peaks Tarps. They worked well for oblong shapes and such. They stretch a little as compared to vinyl and when they get a hole it doesn't continue to tear. However one downfall to Cordura is the repair process. I found a product by the name of "Seam Grip" which was the only economical solution to gluing fabric over the holes. The drying process would take 24 hours. The repair advantage goes to vinyl. You can either use vinyl cement or heat weld patches. Both are servicable within less than 15 minutes.
Regarding pricing, as long as your happy with what you got, don't worry about price. Try to look for not only assembled in USA but assembled with USA fabric. We buy from two places in Atlanta, the main being Harp's Tarps. They make them there and usually have the best prices. Sometimes they have sales and right now checking online their 8' black drops are $325 each w/ 3 rows of D rings. I think their 3 peice set is $819.
Also make sure you buy the made in USA bungees. The foreign brands break more often and don't stretch as much. I found Harp's usually has the best prices on those as well in this area.
We've bought some tarps from Sigman in Marietta. They don't make their own tarps but they offer USA fabric. We typically buy 6' drops from them as Harp's never seems to stock those. Harp's will make them but you have to order in advance.
Hope some of this helpsbigNATURE Thanks this. -
Good stuff all of you. I well being rolling my tarps up with the flap last now. AND MAN DID I TEAR THOSE 14 oz tarps UP! Got at least 8 holes I will be patching this weekend and there's quite a few stretch marks that don't look good either. I'm pretty disappointed in those. Will never buy 14oz again. I was in a bind so I had to do what I had to do.
BUT I DID BUY 2 27' four foot drop steel tarps 18OZ for mytarp.com in Atlanta because they'll have shipped to jacksonville by Monday when I get there to pick up the wife. Not to mention 6 yards of 18oz vinyl and a quart of cement glue...
i just didnt do a great job, it was my first Tarping. I threw the tarps uneven to begin with, they wouldn't budge to move them to center, so I had to work around that, I listened to the #### shipper when he said pull the flap OVER the sides, so I did that one the front and I think that's what got so much air in SILLLY ME... I reclosed it the next day with the sides OVER the flap and it did a lot better but the damage had been done... O well, live and learn I will... I will also be picking up about 4 2 inch ratchet straps in Jacksonville to help hold down where the tarps meet, and to limit overall air intake into the tarps... I'm a learning, slowly and expensively ... -
Don't feel bad bigNature. You've done the right things so far. You didn't know, so you asked questions and got info to evaluate what would work for you. You made a plan based on the info you had that was workable and not extravigant from a business sense. You had to modify the plan based on the actual conditions you found. And you observed the results and made plans to improve the process where you could.
And THAT boys and girls is how ANY new venture becomes an overnight success (usually after a bunch of years of process). <chuckle> -
Haha that's funny, thanks for the clarity... I will keep at it and keep learning
-
Flap on the front tarp goes over the sides to prevent air from getting between the tarp and load. Back tarp is the opposite, flap under the sides.
Riprap Thanks this. -
If you can't slide a tarp over a load to get it even, it's because you didn't use enough padding. The tarp got caught on something after you rolled it out, and that's why it wouldn't budge. There are a lot of options for padding, and sometimes you'll never have enough.
14oz really is on the thin side. 18oz is a more standard weight, but if they ever come loose, they're done for. When I get my new tarps made, I'm going to see if anything in the 22-28oz range is available, since I think it's a bit silly that I have to pad finished lumber before I can tarp it if I don't want it to get cut.bigNATURE Thanks this. -
I agree with kylefitzy on the flaps and padding is key! I think those big tarps would be heavy to try to adjust with padding or not.
Speaking of, I bought a dozen of those blue padded moving blankets from Tarpstop- they are better than nothing but very thin compared to my old ones. I was at the flying J in New Caney TX last year and there was a heaping pickup load of like-new felt moving blankets that were dumped in the back row on the grass. I find they are thin too but the price was right.bigNATURE Thanks this. -
The blue moving pads at Menards are a bit higher in quality, but only come in 36"x72". At $6 each I grab whatever they have in stock any time I'm there. I don't think I've ever had a problem with them when doubled over and strapped down.
-
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
Page 6 of 7
