That trailer brake handle, how does it work?

Hope this works, had a heck of a time "logging in" for some reason.
Ah, yes, the "Johnson Rod", aka, Johnny Bar. Depends greatly what you do. If you are a company driver, you will get a stern lecture if the boss finds out you are using it to stop. They can tell at a service if your wagon brakes are worn, ( been there) however,,,if you are an O/O, power only, that's what the Johnny Bar is for, and the owner of the trailer knows it full well. When I hauled rail cans, I didn't put a set of brakes in my tractor for almost 4 years, in Chicago traffic, no less. I used the trailer brakes exclusively, except in a panic situation, which is why good tractor brakes are paramount. Had to be cautious, RR trailer brakes are not the best ( because EVERYBODY pulling them does that) or none at all. It was the 2nd thing I did when I picked up a rail wagon ( 1st, check the tires) was adjust the brakes, if I could.

 

This is my experience as well. It's difficult to use SOME of the trailer brakes with the Spike, trolley valve, trailer brake handle, or whatever you xall it. I would pull it about 50% of travel to get any braking action and by about 60% of handle movement the trailer brakes were fully applied. It was very hard to quickly and accurately apply SOME brakes using the handle. With an empty trailer on the road you're about as likely to lock up the brakes as use the brakes.

 

This brings up a new issue. A lot of DOT scales have cameras to detect brake temperatures on incoming vehicles. Any brakes that are too hot, too cold or too much of a differential from the others invites closer scrutiny.

 

And if you forget the name on the side of the trailer, just yank down on the Johnson bar and your trailer will try to pass you.

 

I agree completely. The trailer brake in my '06 KW is right where it should be, on the steering column where I don't have to reach up and out to the dash to try and put a couple lbs psi on the trailer. Everything can be controlled with small inputs.

On any newer truck some idiot of an engineer decided to put the trailer brake lever on the dash. That's a dangerous position, easy to over apply brakes. Couple that with the idiocy that these modern dash mounted trailer brakes are INCAPABLE of applying anything less than 20 psi and it's a recipe for disaster. Instant lock up in slick conditions.

I only use the trailer brake gently, never more than 10 psi to help control the trailer down a slick hill. I use it sparingly, almost always using the service brakes.

For any driver with a dash mounted lever, try applying 2-5 psi. If you can't do that and it suddenly jumps up to 20 psi, then leave it alone.

 

I use mine to keep a low amount of pressure on the trailer breaks while I’m downshifting if I come off an interstate exit a little hot. 10-20 psi at most, and never on slick roads. I’ll pull it while sitting at a long stop light too.

 

Just forget about this brake. The only think you should use it for is to slide your trailer axels.
Don’t use it instead of the brake pedal. It acts and feels diferant and can get you in trouble by locking the trailer tires or overheating the trailer brakes going downhill.

 

True, but if your trailer brake is set up properly, with the ability to apply LIGHT brakes with control on the steering wheel column, it can be a very important tool in your war chest.

However, if a driver is unfamiliar with how the trailer brakes respond, or has a setup that requires he/she reach over to the dash and employ 20 psi immediately, then IMHO those trailer brakes are useless.

 

Our company had older trailers. To get the tandems to move I would have to go about 5 mph and apply the brake handle. Worked pretty well.