When looking at a 379, what are the usual problem areas to look at? How do these trucks age inside the cab? Is there a lot of plastic parts that will need attention? Basically trying to get a better understanding of where to look and what to look at. This coming from someone who is mostly in the dark when it comes to looking at a used truck. Thanks.
things to look for when buying a 379
Discussion in 'Peterbilt Forum' started by longbedGTs, Nov 26, 2017.
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longbedGTs Thanks this.
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For sure. Look at the frame and drive train first. Suspension bushings especially front spring pins and bushings. The later ones like from 07 down to like early in the 2000's had more plastic than most inside and the latest ones used a CCD link for gauges that was problematic. The ones with the older dash hold up better IMO. The first American Class interiors had a real wood instrument panel. They are bad about corrosion under the carpet or mat as well
Oxbow and longbedGTs Thank this. -
Older 379 like 2003 with cat engine is the way to go.. No DEF solid trucks.. frames do rust so that's something to look at , go with 18 speed also.. I had an 03 379 70" sleeper 270 inch. Wheelbase 18 speed truck ran like a dream never a breakdown pm every 10k. Truck will last a lifetime.
longbedGTs Thanks this. -
Frame rust was something I was going to take seriously. The only places I've seen frame rust in the same place on most older trucks I've seen was right under the 5th wheel plate. I'm guessing this is a common area on all trucks due to road debris over the years kicking up from the drives? Does that sound accurate? For the motor, I don't have much of a preference. I'm thinking it'd be better to get something that is easy to get parts for and won't break the bank and will last. Aren't CAT parts hard to come by or not as common as Cummins or Detroits and are expensive? I did have a twin turbo CAT in a KW T2000 and loved the low end torque it has.
...and yeah, pre emission 379 are what I'm looking at. -
Where are you located? If you're in the rust belt or buying a northern truck check front cab mounts and rear air bag and shock brackets to the cab. Check for water leaks down into the fuse panel. Or corrosion where the treadle valve bolts to the floor. Peterbilt uses lots of aluminum brackets on the frame. On old northern trucks they just rot away. On double frame trucks frame separation is a very real issue. Or frames rotting and cracking where the suspension bolts to the frame. These are mostly problems with northern trucks where they salt and spray the roads a lot.
Oxbow and longbedGTs Thank this. -
Rusted frames are only really an issue if the truck doesn't get a good wash regularly. Lot of people don't bother taking the time to wash the insides of the rails or the diff housings.
bzinger, Oxbow and longbedGTs Thank this. -
check the clutch linkage pivots under the cab above the air tank, mine are pooched, going to have to drop the battery box someday and somehow re bush it
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Open up the fuse box door. If you see water or rust, turn away and run, run fast and don't look back!
Windshields are rope in with a putty gasket. They are more difficult to put in with the putty in there. If it's not in there they will leak. I have seen many people install them without said putty gasket.
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