Tire Changing

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Mmorales95, Jun 4, 2020.

  1. stillwurkin

    stillwurkin Road Train Member

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    If hes talking on the road, i have even used a screw to plug a hole. Wind it in and air up with the glad hand hose. Check periodically as it won't be a great seal, but can get you home or to the tire shop. Trying to get a plug down through those steel braids can sometimes be a chore. Get himself a bead blaster, cause once loose on the rim, doubt it will take air. Starting fluid will work, but not advisable. .lol. Like you say at home or shop a different deal. Also if a plug doesn't seal well and seeps air psi through the inner liner inside tire casing it will cause tire failure. Thats why i feel better with a patch inside the tire.
     
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  3. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    IMO, get a cheap tire and mount it on a steel rim. Not worth the time and effort to break beads on the side of the highway IMO.

    I like air tools myself but the new 3/4" drive electric impacts are pretty wild. You're going to need something with at least 1,200 lb-ft of torque.
     
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  4. Big_D409

    Big_D409 Medium Load Member

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    I’m in a different boat running wide based tires. Trailers I pull have a mounted spare, tool box holds torque multiplier (50$ on eBay), bottle jack at 20 ton, few blocks of 4x4/6x6/2x4, centering sleeves, socket and 16” extension, torque wrench and 5’ Long tire spoons (2).

    I use these same tools when I change tires in my shop. If I have a blowout or a flat on the road, these pay for themself the first time. Within 45 minutes I can be back rolling, versus waiting hours on a road call.

    For me it’s worked well over the years.
     
  5. PE_T

    PE_T Road Train Member

    As a disclaimer, I want to say that this work is physically demanding, especially for a newbie who doesn’t know the proper techniques in the whole process of removing the wheel from the hub, taking off the tire, and so on. This means that if you’re not careful, you can hurt yourself. I did a tire rotation on my 8 drive tires a few months ago, and after I was done, my body ached. Keep in mind that I’m one of those truck drivers who lifts dumbbell weights at the truck stop (every 1-2 weeks). Sure, with enough experience, many should be able to do this work with ease once they learn the proper techniques.

    So here are some of the tools you’re going to need. By the way, I’ve written on this topic somewhere in this site.
    • Two (12-ton) bottle jacks per axle for stability. 12 tons = 24,000 pounds. You might be able to lift it from the center of the axle with stability with a jack that is very wide, but it probably won’t be a “bottle” jack.
    • If you haul reefer, you can use a load lock over a 40-inch breaker bar. Easy work. Otherwise, you can use a torque multiplier.
    • Get a battery powered 1/2” drive impact wrench with a 33 mm impact socket (1/2” drive). Milwaukee has one that can do 1400 ft lbs at Home Depot. If you get a Milwaukee, make sure you also get a “high output” battery pack. You do not need the 12.0 high output battery pack. I have it, but it was a huge overkill even for two entire drive axles.
    • You need a torque wrench (1/2” drive if available) capable of 475 ft lbs. Expect to pay over $300 for a good quality torque wrench. If 1/2” drive isn’t available, get a 3/4” drive along with a socket adapter from 3/4” to 1/2”.
    • Get some 1/2” drive impact extension bars. I personally have 3/4” extensions and a 3/4” drive 33 mm socket, but my guess is that the 1/2” extensions should hold up. If not, you’ll have to upgrade to 3/4” drive. These are thicker and the socket itself is also thicker.
    • Two wheel chocks.
    • Fresh engine oil for 1-2 drops per tip of stud threads and also between the lug nut and washer.
    • Long tire spoons intended for semi tires. This same tool can also be used to remove the wheel off the hub.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2020
    Reason for edit: Spelling
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  6. stillwurkin

    stillwurkin Road Train Member

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    Ever do a wide base (supersingle) by yourself? We used to bias ply and they were awful. Radial may be slightly easier. Plenty of fun.
     
  7. mud23609

    mud23609 Medium Load Member

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    Done a handful of 425 steer tires over the years. Last one I changed I told my old boss “next time it goes to the tire shop or I go to my pickup your choice!”
     
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  8. Shawn2130

    Shawn2130 Heavy Load Member

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    Last time I changed out the 425 Cooper Roadmaster steer tires, I used the forks on a skid steer to remove the rim.

    I find that certain brands of tires can mount and dismount easier than others.

    I do all my own company truck tire changes and the fleet as well.

    My friend just bought a new Makita brushless 1/2 drive impact. A new model. He said it works awesome.

    I’ll have to try that
     
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  9. Big_D409

    Big_D409 Medium Load Member

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    You mean the wide based steer tire? If so no, I can imagine they are a pain. I have a hard time getting a dual to mount half the time. Always seem to have an easier time with my singles.
     
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  10. stillwurkin

    stillwurkin Road Train Member

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    Well more like a super single. Only bias ply tubeless. My dad had some on 3 axle dump trailers, just on the lift axle. Back in the late 70's early 80's. Those sidewalls were so stiff. Didn't have a machine, just large tire irons and a tire wedge hammer. Talk about a workout. After mounting they didn't like to take air. One time gave it starting fluid. Boom, it lifted the whole thing off the garage floor to about knee high. But it did seat the bead, and aired up.
     
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  11. Caterpillar Cowboy

    Caterpillar Cowboy Heavy Load Member

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    My personal record for most plugs in a hole that I could get to hold air is 4. That was a creative morning.

    I don't like to use the plugs on steer tires though. Much prefer the proper pull through boot and plug style for the important axle!
     

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