To go low or not to go, that is the question?

No it wont affect the springs that way. Not if the bump stops are actually hitting the frame the ride will be brutal lol. The bump stops are on top of the front axle inbetween the u bolts. There should be a rubber pad on them. If its broken off or you can feel roughness on the bottom of the frame from contact you have to do something. Whether raising it back up or shortening the bump stops. As i said before see if the frame is parallel to the ground. Find a level concrete pad and get your tape measure out and start measuring. Your wasting your time here until you do that.

 

Doesn't matter what the ride height is. WHAT DOES MATTER IS the trans. output shaft has to be parallel with the pinion shaft going into differential. If your trans is 10 degrees down your differential would be 10 degrees up. They make degree finder levels. If you flunked geometry or don't understand leave your truck alone.

 

Tiffany42, here's the deal... screw with stock... pay a price... sad... I know... I've got a Twelve Guage Custom's air ride kit on my steer axle... at first it sounded like the way to get a nice ride out of an older truck without air ride can and bunk... set up like Twelve Guage specifies... WRONG..!!! They tell you to remove 50% of your springs and the wedge blocks... JUST Don't Do It..! The oil pan will be sitting on the axle when the bags air out as it sits when not operating. There is NO safety zone if you blow a bag or line. I completely had to pull it apart and replace springs and wedge blocks after paying over $4000 for the install... The initial ride sucked... Now I run 50lbs. of pressure and the ride is great... lowering the front should not effect the angle of the drive line substantially... but too little or too much change in the rear suspension will... happy painting and made the force of custom work be WITH you...

 

Just an FYI... with Pete low air leaf suspension... I believe stock suggested ride height is 8.5" between lower point of frame rail and axle centers of drives to which you must get a straight line between the drives... To remove the wedge blocks without adding air ride to the axle seems to be a simply foolish idea at any point...

 

I've got a 359 that this was done to. In order to level out the #2 axle, they had to put some 2" spacers between the rear air bags and frame. The leveling valve is on the rear axle, so this makes it put more air into the airbags on #2 axle thus correcting the angles. Hope you can understand what I'm saying and it helps you out.

 

It was done to get the front drive axle at the right angle to the transmission.

 

This is correct that there should be some angle transmission to front diff in order for u-joints to work properly... I believe Tiffany's beau pulled the wedge blocks on the steer and set it back down on the springs from the drift I catch. But, if he lowered the rear suspension even slightly out of factory specs, yes... Here is your problem... Bad ride, failing drive line and drive axle components. Still not too good of an idea to pull the steer axle wedge blocks as they create the angle set for the caster and make cornering and handling smooth instead of boxlike.

 

Like beemergary said above