Torque multiplier lug nut wrench

WHEEL TORQUE PROCEDURES


<A name=note>Spoke Wheels


Tighten the wheel nuts in the sequence shown below. When replacing tire and rim assemblies, tighten lightly the first time and hold runout to under 3.2 mm (1/8 inch). Tighten nuts a quarter turn at a time, in sequence, to the torques listed below and recheck.
It is recommended that final nut tightening be done with a torque wrench. If an air impact wrench is used, periodic checks should be made with a torque wrench to ensure the accuracy and condition of the air wrench. The torque of the air impact wrench also depends upon the air line pressure from which it is operated.
<A name=F400173A071>Figure 1 -- Spoke Wheel Nut Tightening Sequence
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SPOKE WHEEL TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Description
Stud Nut Size
Torque Nm (Lb-ft)*
Front Wheel Clamp Stud Nuts
5/8"-11 UNC
165-183 (122-135)
Front Wheel Clamp Stud Nuts (except FA18 and FA20 Series Axles)
3/4"-10 UNC
237-305 (175-225)
Front Wheel Clamp Stud Nuts (FA[W]18 and FA[W]20 Series Axles)
3/4"-10 UNC
325-353 (240-260)
Rear Wheel Clamp Stud Nuts
3/4"-10 UNC
237-305 (175-225)

* Threads must be dry.

See following note.

Before installation of the wheel assemblies, thoroughly clean the brake drum, hub and rim assembly surfaces (particularly in the case of hub piloted wheels). After any procedure that requires the removal and reinstallation of the wheel assemblies, retorque the wheel nuts during the first 80-161 km (50-100 miles) of use.
<A name=s27436>Disc Wheels (Stud Piloted Ball Seat)


Single Disc Wheels (Stud Piloted Ball Seat)' Tighten the wheel nuts in the sequence shown below to the specified torque value given in <A href="http://smrp-prod.macktrucks.com/spubs/internet/c/s33-ts494.htm#ts">Table 1 -- WHEEL NUT TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
Figure 2 -- Disc Wheels with Stud Piloted Ball Seat Tightening Sequence
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Dual Disc Wheels (Stud Piloted Ball Seat)' Loosen outer wheel nuts first, then tighten the inner nuts in sequence shown (<A href="http://smrp-prod.macktrucks.com/spubs/internet/c/s33-ts494.htm#f400174a072">Figure 2 -- Disc Wheels with Stud Piloted Ball Seat Tightening Sequence) to the specified torque value given in Table 1 -- WHEEL NUT TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. After inner nuts are tightened, tighten outer wheel nuts, in sequence, to the specified torque value.
When installing wheels, tighten wheel nuts lightly first, then tighten a quarter turn at a time, in sequence, to the specified torque and recheck. When installing dual wheels, install the inner wheel first. Use the above procedure to tighten the inner wheel nuts. After the inner wheels have been installed, use the same procedure to install the outer wheels.
Disc Wheels (Hub Piloted)


Single and Dual Disc Wheels' Mounting faces of the hub, flange mounting surfaces of the wheels and mounting surfaces of the flange nuts should be clean and free of any foreign material or excess paint. The hub pilot pads should also be free of paint. To prevent corrosion, anti-sieze compound may be applied to the hub pilot pads. Primer and paint thickness on critical mounting surfaces of each wheel should not total more than 0.0762 mm (0.003-inch) maximum. The hub and drum critical mounting surfaces should not be painted.
<A name=F400388A073>Figure 3 -- Flanged Nut Installation
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When installing flanged nuts, apply two drops of oil on the leading threads of each stud, and if the flange nuts have been used before, apply two drops of oil to the junction of the nut and flange of each flange nut. DO NOT get oil between the flange and the wheel.
To install hub piloted wheels:

1. Locate one of the hub pilot pads at the 12 o'clock position.
   Before mounting the wheels, be sure the drum is properly positioned on the raised step of the pilot pad.
2. With the wheel(s) square to the hub, mount the wheel(s) as far back on the pilot pad as possible. Be careful not to scrape the stud threads when installing the wheel(s). Install the flange nuts and hand-tighten.
3. Starting at the top stud position, partially torque the nuts in the sequence as shown in the illustration <A href="http://smrp-prod.macktrucks.com/spubs/internet/c/s33-ts494.htm#f400174a072">Figure 2 -- Disc Wheels with Stud Piloted Ball Seat Tightening Sequence.
4. Using the same sequence, torque the flange nuts to the final torque as given in Table 1 -- WHEEL NUT TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
   DO NOT use cone locknuts on stud located wheels, or ball-seat type nuts on hub piloted wheels. Sufficient contact surface between the nut and wheel will not be obtained, which may result in wheel loss.
   

Retorquing Hub Piloted Wheels


Hub piloted wheels must be retorqued during the first 80-161 km (50-100 miles) following any procedure that requires the removal and reinstallation of the wheel assemblies. Always retorque the flange nuts when the components are at ambient temperature.
<A name=F400175A074>Figure 4 -- Disc Wheel Assembly (Stud Piloted Ball Seat)
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<A name=F400176A075>Figure 5 -- Hub Piloted Wheels
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It is recommended that final nut tightening be done with a torque wrench. If an air impact wrench is used, periodic checks should be made with a torque wrench to ensure the accuracy and condition of the air wrench. The torque of the air impact wrench also depends upon the air line pressure from which it is operated.
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Table 1 -- WHEEL NUT TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Description
Stud Nut Size and Type
Torque Nm (Lb-ft)*
Cap Nuts ' Single (front) or inner and outer (rear) with shoulder or head-type studs
3/4"-16 UNF shoulder
610-678 (450-500)
1-1/8"-16 UNF shoulder
(3/4" backnut)
610-678 (450-500)
1-1/8"-16 UNF shoulder
(7/8" or 1" backnut)
881-1017 (650-750)
1-1/8"-16 UNF head
610-678 (450-500)
15/16"-12 UNF shoulder or head
1017-1220 (750-900)
1-5/16"-12 UNF shoulder or head
1017-1220 (750-900)
Backnut (inner end of wheel stud: shoulder-type studs with threads on both ends)
3/4"-16 UNF
7/8"-14 UNF
1"-14 UNF
237-271 (175-200)
237-339 (175-250)
237-407 (175-300)
Flange nuts for hub piloted wheels
M22 x 1.5 (metric threads)
610-678 (450-500)**

* Threads must be dry.
** If the wheels have been removed, apply a small amount of oil to the lead threads of the stud and between the nut body and flange of the cone locknut when reinstalling. Avoid getting oil on the face of the nut, wheels or tires.
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Chain Clearance Spacers


Some chassis may be equipped with rear axle chain clearance spacers to provide additional clearance between the dual rear wheels and rear suspension components if tire chains are to be used. The spacer shown in the illustration below is used on chassis that are equipped with disc wheels. This type of spacer bolts to the hub assembly, and, depending upon rear wheel size and configuration, one or two spacers may be used. On chassis equipped with spoke wheels, different configuration chain clearance spacers are used. These spacers slide over, but are not bolted to, the hub assembly.
On those chassis having chain spacers bolted to the hub assembly, mounting nut torque should be checked at each A, B, C and D inspection interval. Wheel removal is necessary when mounting nut torque is checked. Also, if the chassis uses two spacers, it is necessary to remove the outer spacer to check the inner spacer nut torque.
Using the tightening sequence illustrated below, torque the chain spacer mounting nuts to a value of 610-678 Nm (450-500 lb-ft).
<A name=F400177A076>Figure 6 -- Wheel Nut Tightening Sequence with Chain Clearance Spacers
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After any procedure that requires the removal and reinstallation of the wheel assemblies, retorque the wheel nuts during the first 80-161 km (50-100 miles) of use.
It is recommended that final nut tightening be done with a torque wrench. If an air impact wrench is used, periodic checks should be made with a torque wrench to ensure the accuracy and condition of the air wrench. The torque of the air impact wrench also depends upon the air line pressure from which it is operated.

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For some reason, my post was marked as spam lol but here is from mack on the torque, can get freightliner if anyone needs but i imagine it is the same

 

I have the x-12 and I love it. Its the only way that I know of to get the torque right. With the 12x it works out to about 40lbs with my standard 1/2inch drive torque wrench.

 

Here you go guys this is how you torque
hub piloted or unimount wheels 450 to 500 ft lbs with oil and its got to be 30 weight motor oil
stud piloted wheels or bud wheels 450 to 500 ft lbs dry no oil no lubricants on this type of wheels
dayton whhels or california wheels 200 to 250 ft lbs dry no oil no lubricants on this type of wheels
but thast just torque the most important its clamping forse any questions pleaseeee hit me up

 

some drivers from company, I work for, purchased these wrenches. They say easyer to brake lug then using impact wrench. So they prefere 1' impact wrenck and keep engine running to get enought air in system

 

I just purchased one of these for $160. They work great! I tried the cheater bar but supporting the end of the extention takes forever. Changing a tire takes me about twenty minutes because I have the spare on a rim and ready to go. I use a 20 ton hydraulic jack and can lift my tuck loaded. I am only 65k. My problem has not been over torqued lug nuts, but over time with weather they just don't want to come off. This cheaterwrench takes them off with no problem and I am not dragging around hoses. I also carry a battery powered screw gun and after the lug nuts are loose I just spin them off. They also have a way to retorque on the side of the road to the exact spec.

 

I've had one since the 80's still works great.

 

I realize that this is an old post, but just had to say that it's been along time since I heard about Dayton's.....

 

Car Runner, what torque multiplier wrench did you go with? I'm looking at getting one. Saw the X12 for like $600 and looked at cheaper options. Tons of generic ones on ebay so not sure I trust them. Trying to find a name brand with a decent site and warranty and only Cheater Wrench is coming up but haven't been able to find anything about them. Know anything?

SHO-TYME, where did you get yours?

 

I went with cheaterwrench. Looks similar to some other companies, but you get more sockets and a great warranty. The small extention was a must to make this work on my low pro trailer.

 

I have just bought one of these works great. after a $ 250.00 service call to have my own tire put on this will pay for itself soon. I have a tire on rim all aired up ready to go on if needed. have a 1/2 heavy duty H.F. impact to speed the on/off after breaking lugs loose. $165.00 from one of the original makers. maybe. anyway. not money wasted.