Tow Strap size ???

And, what's wrong with pull-starting a truck?

 

why would you want a 100,000 lbs tow strap? Because if your truck is stuck, you might need something capable of 160,000 lbs pull.

You base your rigging on a 5/4 safety rating. So if your truck is 80,000 lbs, your safety factor would make it 100,000 lb pull.

IF you use a chain, a 3/8 chain has maybe a 9600 lb tension limit. What do YOU think is going to happen?

Wire rope is the easiest to work with because it has the capacity and is the lightest of the usable rigging.

IF you get into a situation, you have to worry about mire factor. The deeper it is, the more pull you are required. Being able to put power to the wheels is another concern. Being able to pull backwards even again. All reduce or increase your needs.

I'd attach it, but the file is too big for here. It's the rigging card we used in the Army for vehicle recovery.
http://asktop.net/wp/download/GTA09-14-002.pdf

When ever you use chain or wire rope, wrap it in coats, blankets or what not. I have seen them come apart and do some serious damage to vehicles.

USE THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT FOR THE JOB......

heck, the army even had a system put together for it.


I'm all for helping the next guy out, but I'll do with a wrecker bill long before I accept help from someone who only does half the job. Not knowing where or how to hook to a truck will cost me tons more to repair the truck than to call a wrecker with all the correct hook ups. Tow and hook points are designed into the truck for a reason. To prevent damage to the frame or suspension. And without having the tow points and pulling onto the frame or suspension, you are inviting trouble.

We have even gone and pulled fully loaded end-dumps in a mud clay field well over 100,000 lb safely. WITH THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT.

http://www.safe-t-pull.net/

 

He is talking about pull starting a bobtail truck you guys, not towing trucks to the truck stop or pulling fully loaded rigs out of the ditch. It's not rocket science just use some common sense so you don't rip things apart. Get a 30,000 lb strap and be done with it. There has been talk about the drag when you dump the clutch but since you are already rolling there is minimal resistance and you should be pull starting it in 4th or 5th

 

did i say anything was wrong????????????????????????

but like one of the above posts said.

no one is pulling ANY truck that doesn't have air.

 

Good thing some of us are prepared to deal with no air issues.

I have an air hose and glad hands with quick couples already attached so I can charge someone else or me as well as inflate tires.

It will run the same air tools on the truck as my shop too

 

When I have to I remove a plug from one of the main ait tanks install a temp valve that has a glad hand on it, I have a aux air connector bolted to the bottom of my cab. There is an extra trolley valve on my dash just for charging this valve. Proves to be very handy.

 

I have a pair of glad hand with an air quick couple attached to it. A male and a female same as the hose.

If push comes to shove, I can use my air compressor to air the truck up in the same manner.


You put the glad hands on each end of the air hose.

You attach the glad hands to the emergency line for both trucks. charge the emergency on the running truck. (that will charge your air line.

Press and hold the emergency button in until it goes over the setting (about 32-38 PSI) for the tractor protection valve. Once that pressure is reached, it will stay pressed in on it's own.

Now.

For the air chuck, the one I have has retention enough on it that it will hold onto the tire valve on it's own. With the air line hooked up to the emergency line for the trailer, you can safely just walk away from the tire. It will inflate to 105 psi. That's about the max regulated air pressure on the emergency line.

IF (I haven't done this part yet) you put a fitting onto an air tank, you can get the full system air pressure (about 130-135 psi for my truck) at the air line. I can see needing that to get the full 110 psi that is needed for drive tires. Right now, I live with 105 psi in them.

Since your air hose is a "spare" from the shop, that means the smaller air tools like and air ratchet or a die grinder can be kept in the truck. The regulated air pressure off the emergency line is just enough that if you have to do a bit of cutting say of a tire chain or something that requires an air ratchet, you won't over pressure them.

If you tie directly into the air tank, you could possibly even run a bigger 3/4" or 1" impact just enough to power off a tire IF you really had to. It wouldn't be as fast as in the shop, but it beats armstrong breaker bars.