Trucker lost brakes, jumped out of truck, died.

If the brakes are that hot that the service brakes aren't working, this isn't going to have any effect either. Once the lining on the brake drums heat up too much, the friction needed to stop the truck is gone. The only thing that's going to stop truck coming down a hill with burning brakes is a collision, hopefully in an emergency ramp. A steep hill like that you need to come down slow, in a low gear, with a engine brake on, and stay out of the brakes as much as possible.

 

When I drove for Stevens Transport a dozen or so years ago, they had all the engine brakes disconnected. Why, I don't have any idea. When I left there for JB Hunt, where I've been ever since, the old tan International cabovers didn't have a jake either. The only time I ever had any trouble was on I 17 coming from Flagstaff to Pheonix. I had a big cloud of brake drum behind me as I pulled into the rest area halfway down the hill to stop and let them cool off. Then there was a big hill up, which is where I learned that the fan on that piece of crap truck wasn't working. I over-heated about 6 times climbing that hill.

 

Now that was an interesting read. I have wondered for years about the difference in these. Thanks.

 

Using low(er) gear and the hand brake for trailer dragging will keep the service brakes cool.

Ive run every grade in the USA pulling 40K+and never once "smoked" anything.
People have listened to shovel after shovel of the less then "experienced"
telling story after story of how scary some grades are.

If your equipment is in good order and you have a decent skill level
you should never get in trouble on any of the big meanies.

Its the dumbasss and junk iron that make the news(history),so dont y'all be fretting what dont need be and things will prove them selves in short order.

 

Some folks are disconnecting the engine brake on some Macks. Evidently, an internal part is prone to work loose and destroy the engine. I don't suppose it happens often, but at least two guys I've talked with, including one whose truck I recently drove (a CH model) had removed 'em.
I don't take many steep hills anyway, so it really didn't mess me up any. Besides, I'd spent a lot of time in the Rockies without one anyway. Woulda been nice, but not crippling.

Now, I'm driving a new Pinnacle and a year old Sterling. The Mack has a good engine brake, and the Sterling none at all. Again, I'm on flat ground most of the time, so don't really miss it.

 

If your just using the trailer brakes, your going tobe over working those. Which can cause them to overheat and fail first. Granted if this happens you will still have the tractor breaks to stop you. however at this point in time your going to have to stop and let the trailer brakes cool down or run the risk of your tractor breaks failing becouse they are doing all the work.

Just do it like your supposed to. Get in the gear that is best suited for your grade and speed. Start out in a low RPM for that gear using your jakes. Once your RPM's reach the high side apply appropiate brake pressure till your RPM is back on the low side. Rinse repeat. Using all the breaks instead of just your trailer will cause equal stress on all lowering the amount of heat put into just one.

It is only exsperience that is going to teach you what gears for what grades and how much break pressure is needed. The way I like to think of it is you should only be apply your brakes no more then a 1/4 of the time. And no longer then 30 secs at a time. If your doing it more then that your in to high a gear.

 

No once you overheat them they are gone until they cool back down.

 

the concrete company that i work for does not have jakes on any of the mixer that they own, not that we need them around chicago but it would be nice