Bender that's all they changed was a air cooler ? Injection pumps,heads,pistons and bore and stroke are the same ??? Then ill be looking for a air cooler in my spare time. Maybe I don't have to trade the old girl off so soon then. I can't believe it would be that easy. We got a big commercial truck salvage yard not far away too they may have something.![]()
turning up a b model cat motor changing afc diaphram
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by log trucker, Jan 26, 2012.
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All the other components are the same.
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That's some good fuel mileage on a stock motor! I never did any good when motor was in stock condition, lucky to get 5.5 mpg.
This motor should have an air to air cooler already on it....?
Do what Semi Crazy posted. Look for ynot or sledman, they should be able to tell you anything you need to know about that motor. -
It's hard to figure fuel mileage for me I have never drove it just and filled up I always have to figure in the fuel used while running the loader to load logs. One of these times ill drive it from a job fill up and then fill it again before I deliver so can eliminate the usage of fuel while loading and unloading. But its close to 6. Maybe that's why its such a lazy motor they might have the screws turned in ?? I don't know thou. It runs real clean no black smoke that I've seen. There's no air cooler its got a filter can that pulls air from vents on the hood and it goes straight to the turbo then to the intake.
Last edited: Jan 27, 2012
Les2 Thanks this. -
Log trucker you should check the timing using at least pin method.
AATAC does not make it a 425. Governor is the difference on a 7FB from what I can find. A 7FB is supposed to have the good stuff inside already.
Otherwise what would be the difference between a 350 JWAC and a 425 JWAC?
AATAC will give you cooler intake air and more power.
Put in [[some 0R-8785 nozzles]<<< correction DO NOT!!] and a 198123 Borg Warner turbo and time it at 21 BTDC.Last edited: Jan 28, 2012
log trucker Thanks this. -
I would think there be more than a air cooler but I don't know like I said these big truck motors are new to me,but I learn quick. So at least a 7fb motor is got some benefits sounds like. The nozzles and turbo will have to wait till I get some money ahead. Might just turn it up some and add a pyro gauge. I'd like to get a newer pup trailer too or at least convert it to air ride axles but a trade up on pup would be better to a crib style. I'll have to read how to do the pin timing. Need to run the overhead on it yet too not sure that will help if the head was done not long ago that should be good I'd think. It's gota work for a yr or two,or I need win the lottery lol.
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If you add a CAC, bump the governor to 2100 and raise the fuel settings on the pump, you're in your HP range without upgrading the radiator or giving up reliability for little money.
log trucker Thanks this. -
I didn't see it anywhere, but what is the serial number? That plays into what and how much can be done.
An air to air is not required to get to 425, if yours is an early B model prolly all that sets it apart is the torque group in the pump and the turbo. I still have the jwac on mine and it is a far site over 425.
Also, do not put nozzles meant for a dual scroll pump in an engine with a single scroll pump on it, that's a quick way a wearing out a good pump.log trucker and Les2 Thank this. -
Log Trucker you need to get that pyrometer fixed before doing anything. Semi Crazy is right start by pin timing (although I dought it being to far off with that good of fuel milage,and no smoke) theres a plug with a 9/16 head on the side of the injection pump, remove the plug (it is about 1/2" long with a O-ring) use a 3/8 pin or bolt and insert in hole, then look on either side of the flywheel housing and you will find either a plate with 2 bolts or a 3/8 hole, place another 3/8 pin or bolt in one of those holes. Get someone to help and hold pressure on the pins while turning the engine counter clockwise by hand, if both pins slide in the holes at the same time then your in time (TDC). If only one pins goes, if it's not the one in the pump then remove the pin from the flywheel and repeat the process til the pin will fall into the pump hole, then remove the witch hat on the drivers side front of engine, loosen the bolts, with pump pin locked in, turn engine counter clockwise again while holding pin in flywheel again, when it falls in you will be TDC. Tighten bolts back down in the timing advance and install the witch hat. This is also a good time to run overhead. When you get all this done turn the rack screws out 2 to 4 rounds, if you find a place that can meter time, then set it at 24* for a 7fb. I think YNOT has all this covered in the mod section of "the diesel garage" in the heavy duty section.
log trucker Thanks this. -
When timing a B or C pin to pin is as close to the specified timing as you can get without a meter.
To know for sure, the degrees that match the pump cam is scribed on the advance end of the camshaft.
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