The "final" is the main output power transistor. It's the last one in the chain, hence the name. And yes, they can be replaced. The question is how much do you want to spend to repair a radio that sells for about $35?
Ah I see. I didn't know if it was something like a fuse or something like a major fix. If its over 5 i'll pry find a new radio
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-Mitsub...564?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc9be830c Worth spending under 2 bucks on I think. A learning experience for him. While you may have had a point with a Winnebago Cobra the Pro-510 is different. It is a sleeper in performance and well worth repair so long as you stay away from the price gougers out there. Only 3 feet to solder and a little attention to detail of how it and it's hardware assemble, a great learning experience on a great little radio. He could grab one of those small cheap thermal compound tubes meant for computer CPU's saving him the cost of an expensive tube of the stuff. Watch a few Utube vids on replacing the final and you have it made.
i spent $25 on mine getting it turned up and aligned on the oscilliscope and got 5 good years out of it before i bought a bigger radio. It still works great, with a noise cancelling mic of course
@rfrazee, I agree with Outlaw and Cuzzin, now that you've given us this latest bit of diagnostic info. Your LED "meter" should show the relative strength of incoming signals when you're receiving, and should light up most of the bars when you transmit. Since it's not, you're correct that your transmit is apparently not putting out the power that it should. And those are nifty little radios, usually reliable and really durable. I carry one with a cigar lighter cord in a cloth tool bag in the trunk of each car as a spare in case the main radio goes T.U. Since you should have a DC volt-ohmmeter for your repair anyway, a quick check of the voltage supply line to the final transistor will maybe save you replacing the transistor, in case something has just interrupted the supply line. That'll be easier and cheaper to fix. Otherwise, if the supply line is at fault and you replace the final, you'll still have a dead transmitter unless the fault was right where the transistor solders to the circuit board. They do come loose there, though, from the vibration from being mounted in a vehicle; the wire leads are pretty stiff and short, and they don't flex, so the solder can give way. The good part is that it's easy to see from the bottom of the circuit board (the solder side) and you can push on it with a plastic or wooden tool and see the power come back, if that's it.
If the final shorted on it's way out D7 could be open killing collector power to the final. Do not replace this diode and re-power radio while a bad final is still in there. This is because quite possibly you could end up with melted enamel and shorted turns in the audio transformer. We can assume this transformer is still OK since you would have noticed severe distortion in the receive audio if there were any shorted turns. Also you would notice melted plastic in the windings area on it. Not a bad idea to check for solder joint problems although in the 510 this is not nearly so prevalent as it is in the small Cobra models with little vertical circuit boards. The 510 in this regard is so rugged it is a Baja dune buggy race favorite. Also as mentioned cannot hurt to notice if the bargraph works in receive though it likely does. Once in a while a bad solder joint will kill the display but as I said most often this occurs in the little Cobra models with vertical PCB's. While I never had a service manual for the 510 XL if you go to CBtricks in the radio section under Uniden the 510e is close enough to the XL to be useful.
I think I am about done helping anyone here. I do not appreciate a post trying to help others I spent time looking at schematics to write which contained zero links to anything being blocked until it can be checked for spam by a moderator. That was the message I just got after posting it. No doubt the same thing will happen with this post. If not you will know what the post said if it ever shows up. Would have been post 110 for me so one would assume if I was a spammer they would know it by now. If I felt I needed the Stasi I would build a time machine and move to WWII Germany.
I don't appreciate the negative comment when we work so hard to keep the forums up. If you can't wait 10 minutes at 0630 because not all moderators are awake yet, something is wrong. The anti-spam system which helps keep our forum free of spam randomly picked up on you because of the link you posted earlier. Perhaps you would like to read through a million things for sale trying to read the other posts?
Why does the software flag a member with 109 non spamming posts as a spammer over a single link? Why do you berate me for complaining about it since the software could be configured for this not to occur with members who have a reasonable number of posts. After all a member should be able to help another member find the part he needs without having to go through this problem over a single link in more than 100 posts previous. Is your next act to ban me for simple criticism as if there is so little ability to take it? This would lead to there being very few technicians able and willing for free to help others in need as if their time, expertise, and effort to provide useful help is worth nothing. If so your right I do not need to be somewhere I can expect this treatment and neither should anyone else in adult society.
