Vertical Mount A/C

Oh, Really? The new Hondas and Yamahas are so quiet you can probably walk by one and not even know its running

You need to put your 20 year old Briggs & Stratton in the junk yard.

 

For the lazy
Only one vague pic is posted.

Great cooling performance. No idling required.

Now fleet managers and owner/operators can meet state "anti-idling" regulations while lowering fuel costs with a Backwall Air Conditioning System from RV Products. Because the system requires no idling to power the unit, you will save thousands of dollars yearly in fuel costs and extend engine life significantly. In fact, the unit can pay for itself in less than a year!

The powerful, quiet operation of the Backwall air conditioner provides 9,200 BTUh nominal cooling capacity while preserving interior cab space. No ducting is required, and the unit can be mounted on the back wall of the cab, so there's no overhead unit to increase drag and fuel usage. A mounting plate and template is supplied with the Backwall unit to make the installation a breeze. Conditioned air is delivered through a "free-delivery" grille with louvers and the unit is controlled by a digital display programmable wall thermostat. The unit also provides up to 8,000 BTUh's of electric heat for cool weather operation.

With three power source options, you'll have the flexibility to operate the high-efficiency Backwall air conditioner in multiple applications.

Options include:

• 115 VAC/60 Hz when an external power source is available.
• APU - With a properly sized on-board generator.
• Batteries - With a properly sized inverter.

The size and lightweight, 140-lb. design of the Backwall air conditioner allows for an easy installation. The outdoor Backwall unit can be replaced in as little as 30 minutes, which keeps out-of-service time for the truck at a minimum.

 

Does anyone know what they cost?

 

9200btu of cooling, I think the rooftop ones are around 13,500btu? You know what they say, more is better.

 

I know you are right but, I just cant bring myself to cut my roof. I understand it works great for the guys that do it, I just cant.

 

I hear ya, I suffer from the same problem. I had a whale tail and clearance lights on top of my sleeper that started to leak, thought I had gotten the leaks fixed and was sleeping one night in a good down poor. Woke up before my alarm to find I was soaked, I was pissed. Went home and took it all off the top of the truck and fiber glassed all the holes. I want to put a roof top unit on and a gas genset but am having a hard time with cutting that hole.

 

Having run a rooftop myself, I had the same concerns. Good news is, it never leaked a single drop. If they are made to seal up a $250,000 motor home roof, then I doubt they will ever leak myself, I know mine didn't.
I WILL be putting one on the roof of the new Star, if that says anything about their performance etc. Yeah, it took me a while to make the decision, but as already said, the portable is no where near as convenient as a rooftop. I would go with at least 12,000BTU though, anything less, especially lower down than the roof, will have a hard time keeping it cool.
I know folks have walked right by my Honda EU3000is and not realized it was running, so the noise issue is a moot point. Buy crap, get lots of noise etc.

Martin

 

Did you have the Honda running when were in Tacoma?

 

Cant remember if I did or not. Wouldnt have been able to hear it there though, with other trucks idling etc.

Martin