Just found this on the website that PCfreak posted. I want my frame to kind of be like this but with the wheels all the way to the back and the section of the frame generally used for storage that is lowest made longer, maybe to were the back axle is in the picture.Then it raises higher where axles will be relocated.
Very odd question about lowboy trailer I'm sure.
Discussion in 'Questions To Truckers From The General Public' started by DodgeDad, Jun 18, 2016.
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Based off the last picture I posted, do any of you know if that would be able to be made? If so, who should I go to that's a reputable custom trailer builder.
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I have no suggestions for reputable shops or engineering advice,, just some practical real world experience I'm willing to share!!!
You can build anything!!! with enough resources!
I understand your desire to push the axles to the rear and the reason why you wish to.... Now for the BUT!!
The reason most campers and actually most trailers have their axles where they are, generally 1/2 to 2/3rds of the way back from the pin is to control the pin weight..
As the axles are slid backward the pin weight increases,, I think you will have trouble keeping your pin weight low enough for a one ton class truck, if you have the axles all the way back..... You'll need to look carefully at where your center of gravity is and how much pin weight the truck can handle??
The thought of C channel is very wise, or I beam, keeping the framing so there are no or limited closed off areas, like box tubes or boxed rails will greatly increase the service life and ease long term maintenance chores, and corrosion issues. -
Like Petey said, RV trailers have the axles close to the center to help keep the weight on the tow vehicle down. A HD pickup can really only handle maybe 3-5k lbs in the bed vs 20k-40k lbs a commercial truck can handle.
Here's an idea though, I know you mentioned you want to keep the floor low. Why not keep the floor level below the wheels and design some shallow cabinets or something inside the house to hide the wheel wells? Might be able to lower the floor another 8-10" overall. -
I have been wondering about the weight above axles on my truck which is why I am doing an MRAP axle swap. I was hoping if I also beefed up the frame of my truck as I have to anyways, that I'll have the strength to handle the trailer when I do occasionally move it once built. This is also why I have been drooling over an international crew cab pickup like this if I need to upgrade for more truck, I just need to find one around the $35k-$40k range.
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NorthernMechanic, like a car hauler in the one red trailer picture I posted? I have toyed my designs with it, where I get stuck is the interior standing height on the fold outs once they're deployed. The only way around it is make that area seating but I I haven't figured out how I would stop the flex where the piano hinge would meet up with the trailer on the fold out floor which is why I opted towards the lowboy style design. I thought maybe outriggers of some sort to help support the fold out if they could somehow be attached to the car hauler style frame. My problem with that is the largest fold out outriggers I've found are only 10".
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Here's the one I found.
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My fold outs will add an extra 54"d x 16'L x 7' H on each side.
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Petey, as far as the balance goes with weight. The kitchen has the most weight in one area, so it and the bathroom were to be placed above the trailer axles. I i was also thinking I beams for length of trailer and c channel for the cross support between the I beams to help against twisting that would also be used for floor support. I also think I beams would be best when it's parked and supported so there's no sag over the life of the trailer. This will be a full time, four season home.
PeteyFixAll Thanks this. -
Yeah pretty much like that red trailer except have the trailer come out to a full 8' 6" in front of and behind the tires.
PeteyFixAll Thanks this.
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