Vibration @ 55mph and above w/creek sounds at all speeds.

I'd take it to MD Alignment in Altoona, IA. Mike Becket is an absolute expert at figuring out vibrations. I think they still do service, but may only be in the business of selling alignment equipment, training, and consulting. If not, there are "MD Alignment shops" across the country-businesses that were trained by Becket. My first guess to your vibration would be out of round radial circumference tire(s), with a slight tow out.

 

I should have said, a good shop will have a radial runout guage. That checks how close to perfect circumference. I remember Becket saying on the radio that there is a point where no amount of weight in balance-whether weights, beads, Centramtics, or Balance Masters-with overcome a tire too out if round. You can check kingpins yourself probably cheaper than a shop would charge, even after buying a 20 ton jack and a tire iron. Just jack up the front wheel you checking, and take a tire iron with a socket on it and leverage the wheel up from under the tire. If there is play, then they are getting worn out. If you do that, then also buy a grease gun and lube the zerks while the front end is jacked and turn the steering wheel as far as will go a couple of times. That's how kingpins should be lubed, but its hardly done that way.

 

It's possible that one of the tires could have broken or shifted belts.

 

Just because a tire looks okay, like ^^^, it could have a broken belt. On a 4 year old truck, it's unlikely any real wear, such as bearings, U-joints, harmonic balancer, steering or any other typical wear from an older truck, so by process of elimination, it has to be tires. I know, welcome to the game, IH is a good truck, and you'll get it sorted out, hopefully before you go nuts. Kind of a rule of thumb, if the steering wheel shakes, it's usually up front. If it shakes your rear end in the seat, it's probably from the back. Good luck.

 

Don't worry, your truck won't fall apart, although it may seem like it might. Trucks are tough and you'll get it right. Be cautious about simply "replacing" parts without good cause. I know, it's a bit of a crap shoot, and like many say, start at the front and work back, which can be costly. Tires are about the most costly item, as you can buy new steer tires, and run over a bolt, ta-da, trailer tire, and you can't be bummed about that. It's the cost of trucking. Be glad it's only the tires these here days. Not sure where the creaking sound is from, typically a dry 5th wheel or spring hangers, but again, the truck isn't that old for front end wear,,,yet.

 

Why?

You are going to waste money on guessing on what the problems are.

Do it right first, take the time to get it into a real shop, not Loves or T/A, those are oil change places. Take it to an MD shop or the dealer.

With worn Kingpins, there is a chance that this is a problem that adds to it, so stop throwing money at the problem hoping it will go away.

Cenramatics?

I have a 50/50 bit of luck with them, I may have a few sets sitting in the corner of the shop, removed from trucks that could not use them because they didn't work.

Getting an inspection means having a mechanic actually inspecting the truck, not a DOT inspection. It may not be you but I don't get how owners think that the DOT inspection is one that is good enough for a purchase, that is stupid - yes I said it. An inspection I get is paid to find things that are wrong, seriously and trivially wrong, that inspection findings goes right into the negotiation for the truck, if it needed kingpins, then $2k is taken from the offer, if it needs tires, then $1000 and so on. The inspection means things like the king pins are checked, it means that the oil is removed from each major component to check whats going on.

 

To save yourself some time and potentially a lot of money, I'd take it to a reputable tire shop (not a truck stop) and have them put both of the steers on their balancing machine. Each one needs to balance out to zero before it goes back on your truck.

Then, give your truck a good greasing. Replace any zerk that won't take grease or that spits grease back out after you remove the grease gun.

Once you've done those two things, if the vibration still persists then you can begin looking at things like the alignment or worn components.

But it's best to get rid of the easy, obvious, and relatively inexpensive things first.

 

Check your air pressure in all of your tires. Look closely at your steer tires at the point where they contact the rim.
Visually inspect them for flat spots . If your truck was sitting at the place you bought it from for quite a while, then your tires may be squared off where they contacted the ground. If they are an off brand tire get rid of them.
Check your ride height, if it's off it can cause vibrations.