Volvo reviews or opinions

I had a volvo670 that i liked alot. It was a company truck but it averaged 8.3mpg!!! Now im looking to buy my own truck and i wonder what specs i'll need to achieve the same mpg??? The truck had 400hp cummins with a 10sp eaton trans. Im wondering if a 13speed could give me good gas mileage even though they are heavier.

 

The 13 speeds are about 300 pounds heavier, but they do save fuel and brakes when you drive them right. The rpm change in a 13 speed is about 250rpm per gear, as opposed to 400rpm per in a 10. End result is that you shift more, but you can keep the motor in that sweet spot below 1500rpm most of the time. Makes hill climbing a breeze, and descending is alot safer as long as you have some strong jakes.

I'm guessing the company hack you were driving was probably an N14 engine. The Cummins ISX motors do really well, but I'd have to be hauling thin air to average 8.3mpg. I spotted a nice set of specs on an older 770 in the truck paper the other day - detroit 12.7 and a 13 speed - now that would be a cheap o/o ride to maintain. You're probably best off staying away from Volvo power, and getting a pre-EGR engine will save you some cash, fuel and hassle. Depending on what/where you run, you'll want to be picky on the drive gears and the tire size - some used trucks out there have some WEIRD setups (like 3.73's with a 10 speed). There's a reason those trucks are for sale - running about 1,700rpm at 65mph will never make any money.

If I was replacing the truck I have, knowing what I know now, it could be done for about $30,000. I'd find an '00 or '01 Volvo 770 with a Cummins N14, 13 speed, 3.58's, and 22's. Set the engine at about 500HP, and find some 11R22 rubber. They built some of those with the workstation sleeper - which is the best feature when you're stuck on the road IMO. And I'd set it up with a TriPac APU to save even more fuel when I'm stuck somewhere for awhile. The N14 can get near Volvo mpg, without all the issues that come with Volvo power like expensive and hard to find dealers, parts, etc. And with a pre-EGR engine, you'll beat newer trucks by at least .5mpg.

Hope that helps, and let us know what and where you plan to run the truck - setup is the difference between pass and fail in this business!

 

Thanks for the info!!! Very informative. I'm planning on running all 48 for now and eventually move to the southeast.

Do you know any good companies that I could lease on with???

What does 3.73 mean???

 

3.73 is the gear ratio in the rear end.

 

If you had to select a 2006 or 2007 Volvo, what specs would you get in order to get the best fuel economy? I ask this cause most companies require 2005 or newer.

 

Whats the benefit of having one gear ratio over another??? Whats the best to get for fuel economy??? Would i notice a difference in driving from one gear ratio to another??

 

I have never driven anything newer then a 2005 Volvo, me personally i prefer a Detroit 60 series engine, 10 speed tranny with 22.5's. With all that hauling around 70k to 75k i was averaging 6.8-7.0 mpg's.

 

A higher gear ratio say a 3.58 will give better fuel mileage and better wear on the engine then say a lower ration like a 3.73. The lower gear ratio will not need as much torque for acceleration as the higher gear would. you will notice some difference from ratio to the next.

 

Basically it all comes down to engine rpm at a given speed, and available power for pulling grades under load. The tire size will affect the outcome as well, due to the diameter of the tires. There are alot of calculators online - just google search gear ratio calculator and find one that works.

You'll need to know a few basics - like final output ratio on the transmission (most are .83:1 on the "B" transmissions - Eaton Fuller uses an A or a B as the last digit of the trans model, and the B will be a higher overdrive). Also need to throw in a drive axle gear ratio, such as 3.58:1 - and you'll need to know the tire diameter. Remember, tires wear down, so a set of 22.5" LP's that are 41" tall new will be about 40.3" or less worn. You can find diameter specs on tire companies websites, they all vary some.

According to many experts, 22.5" LP's (295/75R22.5 or 275/80R22.5) have the least rolling resistance of any tire out there - don't ask me why. That's what I set up my truck with, along with 3.58's and a 13spd. I run about 1,550rpm at 65, but I've found the best mpg at 63mph - and I usually stay there.

I'd have to agree that the Detroit's are the best engine for overall durability and cost to repair. Second to that (and slightly more powerful) are the Cummins N14. If you have to buy a 2005 or newer truck because of a company requirement, then you're in a different boat - but I'd stay away from Volvo power because of parts cost and availability. The Cummins ISX was my choice, I just like the 1,850ft/lbs of torque and I'm willing to pay for it if it winds up costing me (most max at 1,650).

When you take a truck out for a test drive, get it up to the highway speed you run at, and look down at the tach. If it's between 1,400 and 1,550rpm you'll probably do alright - any higher than that and it'll cost you a fortune in fuel. Remember that a 10 speed with high drive gears will be hell pulling hills, and the lack of true low gears may hurt you coming out of holes. I've never lacked a low gear in this setup, most of the time I have to up-shift because I'm moving too slow and didn't need low after all. I only use low to save my clutch or for tight manuevering at idle.

 

Hwy,

What does the "C" in FRO16210C mean??? Thats what Swift and most companies who use the 10 speed spec them out.

KH