Water Pump Weep 3406E

@Heavyd, @GrapeApe I respect you guys very much as you take the time from your work to come on here to help others. I always look forward to your answers or solutions to help other members out.

I didn't see anything of an argument going on here either, but just a disagreement in the beginning, but it's all good.

I know some threads really get out of hand and it's just gets to the point you don't respond anymore.

Anyways thanks for all you guys do.

 

Seals toasted Possibly bearing right behind it..Dont delay,with hot weather itll Pop,probably going up a hill in the Mohave Desert.

 

I've been a member here for many years now. Yes, I am here for free, on my own time, trying my best to help others. I also love to learn new things as well. Unfortunately, as I get older, I also become less tolerant to bickering, even on a minor level. There are a handful of topics I don't even comment on anymore or talk about simply due to the almost instant arguing they seem to always induce. I read into this thread and saw it quickly turning into another mindless argument instead of being productively discussed on ways to offer someone more than one option to deal with the issue. That is how I perceived it and therefore replied the way I did. No offense to anyone.

 

Many do not leak enough to notice and it dries up as the engine is hot. Application and temperature are big factors, so is the quality of reman. Cat is pretty generous on how much they say is acceptable, I'm sure this saves them a lot of warranty dollars. My general rule is, if it's leaking enough to run and possibly drip, it's time to schedule it for replacement. If you change it every time you see a little dampness, you'll be wasting a lot of time and money

Here's a Cat video on it for stationary engines. Notice how he says, "If it's more than a few drips." Cat is pretty vague and the amount of coolant I see on the rag, personally I'd change the pump.

 

The impeller on the water pump can slip on the shaft. This will cause poor circulation.

 

Did you check the temps with the laser while the engine was running? Before, during, or after the fan was engaged? IF the engine is running and the fan engaged, the coolant/temp at the outlet/bottom of the radiator should be much cooler than the inlet/top of the radiator. If the temps are the same or darn near, then the radiator core is restricted either internally or externally, or both. External restriction can often be checked by shining a flash light through the core and looking for light passing through, be sure to do this with the engine off . After checking the radiator with engine off and if all is good, start engine and bring to full operating temp, or do this check after a leg in your trip. Read the temp at the thermostat outlet, the upper radiator tank inlet and the lower radiator tank outlet. The t-stat and inlet temps should be near the same, the lower tank outlet should significantly lower then the upper readings, say 20*F+ or so (if memory serves). Some of this may be challenging depending on how the A/C and trans coolers are mounted. If there are issues with the rad core, scanning the area of the core with the laser will tell you where the restrictions are by higher temps compared to other sections of the core due to plugged tubes or plugged cooling fins, or both.

If cooling fins are plugged, often times they can be cleared with compressed air from the back side(opposite normal airflow). If tubes are plugged, a reverse flow radiator flush may clear them. If restricted internally, be sure to flush entire cooling system and to back flush the heater core.