What are some APU alternative setups??? its getting hot!!!

That'll help. Getting my hands on it and putting it to use has made me re-think a few things. The most important being that there really isn't a useful, universal design. Use cases are always different. What works for me may not be ideal for you. The thing that does hold true are the electric formulas. Figure out how many watts and time you're expecting to use, then build a system that will supply that and replenish somehow.

 

It is for sure the way to go. I will need to have 10 hours of full use with a A/C and Fridge will be my min requirement. I normally drive 8-11 and have the larger alternator and will have on next truck as well. In fact I believe they have a never one out that is brushless so will check that out as well. So should have no problems on charging. I want to hook my camera system to it as well so it does not drain down truck batteries. This is the main issue I have right now on the system I have. My solar is only 150 watt and does not keep up with the camera system when I spend a week plus out of truck.

 

Do you haul swinging beef in the cab too?

 

My standard 135A alternator hasn't played as big a factor as I expected. Before I installed solar, 2-3 hours on the road and I'm fully charged. Now much faster. The solar is always on and charging as needed, even when the truck is running. When it fails, I'll look into a higher amp model, but not to any great extent or money.

You should measure the amperage the camera system is pulling. That would bug me, I'd want to know the actual numbers. Also, is your solar panel setup a portable like the HF kit or an installed setup? Either way it wouldn't be Rockefeller money to expand that enough in the mean time to keep up with the cameras on extended parking. Maybe better truck batteries too?

My inverter displays output watts so that has helped me size things up like this. I also have an old OTC multimeter that will do inline amps up to 20A for anything hooked straight to 12V. A similar discovery I made on mine was the mini-split pulling about 100W while turned off. Just the power to keep the circuit boards awake and listening for the remote. Solution: I unplug it when I'm not using it.

Which brings me to something you'll see as you dig into learning more about solar. Internet searches will take you to off-grid home applications and RV setups for primitive camping. You'll see a recurring theme of people that discover it's nearly impossible to duplicate the convenience of utility power without a running engine. Then they start doing some practical load shedding and find out they can manage with a lot less than expected. You do have to be more mindful of how much crap is running while your parked, and also park pointing the panels at the sun where possible. Definitely more care required than a set it and forget it situation with an apu or genset.

I mention that because my original plan was 4x160W panels. The fourth one wouldn't fit right, so I went with the three. Now that I've lived with it for a few months, it's clear I'll get more bang for the buck with a fat set of house batteries and an isolator. My problem of running HVAC all night on a 10 hr break will be solved by storage capacity and load management, not additional charge amps in the daytime.

Now if you want to see a solar setup that will go like utility power, look up Dice on Facebook. He used to post here but moved on. Last I saw I think he had mounted hard panels on his roof at 1000W or more, and 800-900 Ah of house batteries. Much more than I'd ever do, but maybe his use case justifies it. Nonetheless, it's worth checking it out even if you don't plan to go that big.

 

My solar panel is attached to the roof (Stuck) not coming off or worth it. It was one that TK has and original it was just to maintain the batteries as I thought the EPU set up would work different. So I will be less worried about that part as well. I want to have a good set up in storage and less about incoming power. My incoming power will only be about maintaining the batteries while it is setting for long periods of time. So I think we are thinking the same line on how this would work out for both of us. I thought about adding the merlin hood solar on this or see if I can get another TK solar added to the roof. I need to look closer on how it is installed to see if I have enough room to add it on. I think that would be enough for this truck to work fine. I normally don't have any problems starting unless it has been 10 days or so. But it has been winter time and crappy weather so that has not helped.

Also I have been looking at some of the installs on the Van build outs. Might be able to use some of that information to help set up a semi easier. On the mini split using up power when not in use I would just set up a toggle switch up front to turn it on and off or some kind of Bluetooth connected circuit cut off switch. Maybe something like this (Turn Any Appliance into a Smart Device with an Arduino Controlled Power Outlet ) I only glanced at it but think it might work for what I am thinking.

 

Before you spend on more TK, look into incorporating that panel you already have, into a more common system setup. As-in adding one or more panels from somewhere else and connect them all in series to a more standard MPPT charge controller capable of the V/A your panel array can produce.

That TK panel has to have a charge controller of some sort, probably gold plated chinesium PWM cheapie with a TK label on it, the bare minimum. Probably proprietary wiring terminals too, which can be cut off and changed of course. If you were looking for simple, of course another one could be added in parallel. Personally, I don't like proprietary systems and would not do this in favor of a superior product line that will be more easy to expand/change as needs dictate.

Any of the solar suppliers will offer standard wiring terminals, fuse blocks, UV-safe wiring, etc. When I ordered my panels from Rich, I also got more than enough wire and terminals to custom fit everything any possible way, then cut it up and redo it a few times if needed. Merlin looked like quality stuff as well. I did read some sad stories of people buying no-name panels and whatnot from Amazon, so did not do that. AZ does have a decent selection of name brand components (Renology, etc), so not ruling them out entirely.

To clarify on the mini-split parasitic draw: I just unplug it at the inverter when I'm sleeping in the truck and not using a/c. My inverter came with a remote power button that I just dropped in the gap between the mattress and the wall for easy reach. I also turn it off while driving to avoid RF noise on the CB from it and things plugged into it. Chargers and usb wall warts tend to be noisy.

When I park more than overnight at home, I turn off the inverter which solves the mini-split draw if it's still plugged in. I also turn off the fridge and unplug my refrigerator cooler. I have a 12V cig lighter/usb brick hard wired to B+ up front, that keeps the dash cam and wifi running. That's all that remains powered up. Never had any issues since it's such a tiny draw. I know your camera setup is using a dvr and that probably powers multiple cameras, so you'd definitely want to measure that to know exactly what draw you need to satisfy. If you needed the inverter on to power the dvr, you could put in a wifi controlled outlet for the mini split and control it separately from anywhere.

 

Camera is set up right to battery so nothing else is running. I will need to see how much it really pulls. I read up on it before but can't remember off the top of my head on what it really was. Thanks again for the extra information.

 

The Green APU does a great job for me. I have mid roof International LT. It will freeze you out in the summer. I keep it on 67 for heat in the colder winter and does a great job.

 

Figured I'd point out a negative with the mini-split solution, since I'm now suffering from a lack of foresight. I been meaning to get the EPA certification so I can buy more than just 12oz cans of R-134a at the auto parts stores, but never got around to it. Always was a back burner thing and I never looked into it seriously. Now it's come back to haunt me.

One unit came in not cooling. I discovered the suction line had cracked at the base of the flare and let all the magic smoke out. You need a EPA 608 certificate to buy R-410a, really any refrigerant in quantities over 2 lb. 410 is hard to find in small cans, and the markup is astronomical. Today, the repair is less than an hour to either put a new flare on the end, or replace that line if it's not long enough. But for immediate service, I got to hire an hvac guy to come out and charge it.

This week I'll be getting the EPA cert and ordering a 5 or 10lb tank of 410. Might even get a tank of 134 while I'm at it, since I use that often enough. One of those things you need to have in place ahead of time.



ETA: these mini-splits come pre-charged in the compressor unit. Once the system is installed and vacuumed down, you open the service valves and the charge is released into the system, ready to go. Thus, you don't need to purchase any refrigerant separately to install a new one.

 

Not that big of a deal I guess, I have a good service guy that does my home and could knock it out for pretty cheap. Guess it would be easier to do it yourself. Gonna guess it lasted 1 or 2 years before an issue?